First off - I realize that the Q-loader system is sold to a niche customer base and that is is not as widely used as a standard hopper. Also, information on the RAP4 sniper mount is hard to get by, which is why I decided to do this pictorial/how-to guide. Hopefully it'll be of use to Qloader users of this board.

After what seemed like an eternity, I finally received my RAP4 QLoader sniper mount adapter. I was surprised to see the contents devoid of instructions or installation steps. Although the design is straightforward, it does NOT work right out of the box.

Many, many people complained about AIC's fragile twist-lock adapter for the A5. The fine folks over at the Qloader labs addressed the issue and designed a sturdier part that no longer has that annoying tab that easily broke. I'm glad to say that the RAP4 kit includes this redesigned piece:



On a sidenote, that new piece is sturdier than the new tabless adapter from AIC, and actually looks a lot like the X7 Qloader adapter.

My joy quickly turned to disappointment. As soon as I installed the kit on my marker, the whole assembly drooped under the weight and pressure of an empty Qpod. I checked RAP4's forums for an easy fix and sure enough, I wasn't the only one with this issue. Some people suggested adding a couple of layers of electrical tape around the adapter tube, which I tried. Although effective, this created a gap between the direct feed adapter halves. I promplty removed the electrical tape and went straight for the epoxy glue.

Epoxy will bond anything, and bond it for good. I needed something durable that would outstand the rigors of the local paintball field. Simply put, I liberally applied epoxy glue to the feed tube (especially on the silver grinded part and on both inner halves of the direct feed adapter:


Once reassembled, I took the rest of the epoxy glue and applied some more all around the seams and gaps of the whole assembly. That thing won't budge now!


While you wait for the epoxy to dry, you will need to shave off/grind the supplied nut so that it fits in the gap where it should fit. Because the two major parts were glued and are now a really tight fit, the nut doesn't fit anymore. I remember someone suggesting a locking bolt (which are thinner) instead of grinding and using the supplied nut from the kit:


Unfortunately, it's late and the hardware store is closed. I'll update this thread as soon as I get a locking nut and/or grind the existing one!

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