The trigger stop mods

The trigger stop mods assist the R/T in achieving high rates of fire by preventing the user from over stroking (pulling back too far) the trigger. The ideal trigger stop mod will allow you to pull the trigger ONLY enough to nose up the sear to release the rear bolt and no further.

Most users will do a trigger stop mod and be satisfied enough with the results to go no further. Some experimentation will be necessary from marker to marker and if you perform the sear pin mods.

There are three variations of this mod:

1. The Q-Tip mod (and it’s derivative set screw mod)
2. The Straw Mod #1
3. The Trigger Pin mod


1. The Q-tip mod works by placing a small section of a Q-tip (Cotton Swab) stick (not the fuzzy ends!) inside of the trigger spring. Again, this is the spring at the nose of the trigger, and by placing a piece of a Q-tip inside the trigger spring you stop the nose’s downward movement at a designated spot. This stop should coincide with the rear pull of the sweet spot on your R/T’d trigger to prevent you from over stroking.


The common size used with the Q-tip mod is 0.9 cm (centimeters). Experimentation may be necessary to fine tune the size to your marker.

The derivative to the Q-tip mod is to drill and tap a hole for a set screw in the trigger nose. The set screw should be long enough to fully engage the threads in the nose *and* stop the trigger from going down too far. The bonus of this method is that you can adjust the set screw to meet your R/T’s requirements on any give day. Some people that used this method complain about the screw backing out or in and whacking the adjustment. This can be cured with a small amount of blue (non permanent) Locktite on the threads.

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2. The Straw Mod #1 works by placing a piece of “sippy straw” from a Capri-Sun juice bag on the trigger stop pin. In my opinion this method is the best of the three because it not only prevents you from over stroking the trigger, but also prevents you from under stroking it (preventing the trigger from going too far forward) as well. If the trigger goes too far forward it’s that much further you need to pull the trigger to engage the sear to release the bolt.


An alternate to the sippy straw can be an appropriately sized piece of electrical shrink wrap tubing. If you use the shrink tubing you should get the appropriate size that does NOT require you to actually shrink it to the pin. If you try to shrink it to the pin you may wind up swelling the ends of the tubing which will distort the size and shape, and thus adversely affect the function.

Remember the description of the trigger from above – it rotates on one pin and the other is a for and aft stop pin. The piece of straw/tubing you use should be cut no wider than the trigger itself so that it doesn’t interfere with placing the left side cover back on.

Because this method also prevents the trigger from returning completely it will interfere with the safety pin. A slight modification of the trigger resolves this problem and will still allow the safety to work properly. If you look at the trigger you will see a small “hook” shaped protrusion below and aft of the trigger slider. This hook is what is engaged and disengaged by the safety. The big hole in your frame is where the safety passes through, if you reassemble your trigger onto the frame you will notice that this hook goes slightly inside of the hole, get out a file or some fine grit sand paper and remove the tip of the hook so that it doesn’t get in front of the hole and the safety can pass through unobstructed.
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3. The third trigger stop mod also uses a set screw, but this set screw is put through the trigger guard on your grip and points up towards the rear of the trigger. You will need a screw long enough to go through the rear of the trigger guard (near the hand grip), strong enough not to bend under force and long enough to engage the rear of the trigger. It is also adjustable, lengthening or shortening the screw increases or decreases how far back you pull the trigger before it stops.