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Old 11-30-2008, 11:53 PM
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Re: How do you improve air efficiency?

Quote:
Originally Posted by patriot14t20
its the tests i have done with barrels porting all the way end to end i seen now more air consumption than the same sized barrel with no porting,
Which, I find extremely odd. I surmise a paint-to-bore mismatch but that's only an opinion
if you think about it when the the marker fires, all the air that is used is used the valve doesnt stay open longer to push that ball out, the only difference i seen was in sound.mmmmmmm
That is dependent on a whole lot of variables that I cannot control. When you modify a marker, say polish internals, no two people will polish them the same quality, nor will each valve/striker behave identically. I'm saying that in a "completely stock, out of the box" condition, test a marker with 3 barrels...
1. stock barrel (7" no porting)
2. 12" barrel, no porting (other than say...a muzzle break)
3. 14" barrel with a ton of porting.
4. 14" non ported barrel.
5. Proper paint to bore fit.

If you tune the marker to the 14"/high ported barrel to 300fps...and then switch the 14" non ported barrel, the velocity should be slightly higher. Then swap to a 12"/no ported barrel and using a tank that had the SAME amount of air, the velocity should be somewhat higher. Then switch to the stock barrel and the velocity should be higher still. This is dependent on the fact that the air source was at the same pressure for each test and the bore-to-paint match is optimal.
and on the Lp kit, i have seen a friend use one on a 98 and he increased shots per tank , as you just said you did too with a sypder, i havent tried a lp kit on a a-5 as well, but why would a lp kit work on a 98 custom and your spyder and not on a a-5?mmmmmmm

I haven't done it to my A5 yet because I just got it and I'm still "checking it out" in it's current configuration. That and I am saving for the LP kit...lol.

I'm not saying putting an LP kit on a HP marker is a bad thing...I'm saying that things will change in how the marker behaves when you alter the parameters of it's original design. In the last sentence where I said that LP may/may not change usage consumption goes to the fact that variables will affect how it performs.

I eluded to the "two schools of thought" on the subject, I guess I have to explain them.

1. The thought that converting an LP marker to LP will positively affect efficiency is based upon the fact that you are 'dumbing-down' the pressure usage from ~850/900 psi hitting the ball to about ~450psi. That equates (to some) a savings of ~550 psi per ball and thus, makes the marker more efficient.

2. The other thought is that while yes, you are lowering pressures from ~850 down to ~450, there is a need for more volume of air to be stored and used for a shot. While the pressure is low, the volume is (in essence) doubled and therefore, cancells out the low pressure "savings" listed in #1.

I don't subscribe to either theory because one modified marker will behave differently against a similarly modified marker. That's because there are just some variables that remain out of our control...like manufacturing tolerences, maintenence behaviors, viscocity differences in lubricants (or amount of lubricant applied), O Ring size variations and so forth.

Do I think LP kits are a good thing? Yes I do but not as an "end all" for making a marker more efficient. What makes a marker more efficient is what the user does to it to make it that way and that can be any number of things - polishing internals, keeping them slick, not wasting air around the ball, nor through barrel porting, etc etc....

In my example of barrel portings and lengths...the longer barrel requires more air to push the ball out of the muzzle. That's evidenced by the heightened velocity in the non-ported and shorter barrels. To lessen the air going down the bore behind the paint, you need to turn down the air going to it. That means turning the velocity down. Now I'll admit that the system in a Tippmann is different than in a Spyder...the Spyder actually lessens how hard, and thus how long, the valve stays open when you adjust the screw/spring tension. I'm not that familiar [yet] with how the Tippmann valve works by comparison but I know that the velocity adjuster in the valve only disrupts the flow...or cause turbulence. The only real change would be an RVA...which changes the amount of spring tension there is on the striker that hits the valve open. In this respect, it works just like the Spyder (kind of...the spyder valve gets a lower tension spring to go with making it LP) by controlling how long the valve 'dwell" is (how longit's open and as measured in milliseconds).
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