I have been getting a lot of ball breaks where my front bolt and cyclone feed meet. I have sanded all sharp edges, burs, (really, I sanded the hell out of everything.) and I am still getting ball breaks. I have ready everysingle post on the cyclone and I have a hunch it has something to do with my powertube and frontbolt but Im not positive. I am looking into getting the Rufus Dawg Wicked Bolt but need some input on it before I buy it.

Rufus Dawg Wicked Bolt Specs:
Venturi Bolt Design:
::Allows more even distribution of the Air Blast on the paintball.
The result is a more consistant shot due to less deformation of the ball.

Full Paintball Cradle:
::Full conical shape on the front of the bolt which "Cradles" the
ball so it does not deform on contact.

Flexible Rear Seal:
::Provides a full seal around the powertube without extra drag or
friction.

Guide Rails:
::The rails provide an outer track to guide the bolt inside the body.
Less contact rusults in less friction and wear.

Recessed Pockets:
::The recessed pockets on the outer shape are designed to hold paint
and shell fragments from boken paintballs, keeping them from hurting
performance.

Delrin Material:
::Molded from Delrin, a strong self lubricating plastic.

Just looking for some input, hopefully someone owns this bolt and has wise knowledge to shed.

Well, what bolt are you using right now? The stock one shouldn't cause you any problems, so if you're still using the stock powertube and front bolt, I would look elsewhere for the source of your issue. Particularly at the microline and the banjo fittings for the cyclone. Twice now I've had part of the microline flake off on the inside and block airflow to the cyclone, and one time when it did this it would function fine in semi auto, but if i tried full auto or ramping it would chop even at 15 bps (lowest I can go with the APE board). I've also managed to accidentally crush the nipple on the banjo fitting that the line attaches to (probably when using pliers to remove the stock line), and this caused a similar issue. You also want to check out the front bolt test review that is stickied in the A5 Internals section, as I'm pretty sure Rufus Dawg was one of the bolts tested. Personally I use an Orange Howitzer bolt and I am happy with it. From my testing it has improved efficiency slightly (but only when coupled with the use of a heavier drive spring and a regulator), but accuracy is about the same. Front bolt upgrades really won't have a drastic effect on a tippmann's operation, unless they are poorly made, and then its a drastically BAD effect, which you don't want.

Suggested reading.

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I have a wicked bolt in my old 98 C.. it works pretty well, i don;t know if it gives any preformance, but I do know I get WAY less ball breaks cuz of it.

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I have shocktech front bolt but have recently beent hinking of getting a NDz front bolt or the orange howitzer cause both of them have internal orings. the shocktech slides up and down to easily so i dont think its gettt ing the best seal.

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The 98c backuphttp://www.a5og.net/showthread.php?t=5893

Well I have read the sticky "Scientific side by side comparison of leading aftermarket front bolts for the A-5!" and the main reason I chose the Wicked bolt was because of the ball cradle and the venturi design. I bought my gun used and the powertube was cracked so I replaced it with another stock a5 powertube and I have always had problems. I just dont know what the deal is. One thing I do know is that I have TONS of ball breaks in my cyclone and where the cyclone and bolt meet. The only current mod I have on my cyclone is the vortex mod, and the Oh and also the gun is OLD! For example I have to unscrew the 2 front screws just to take my barrel off or put it on.

It's possible that when the vortex was installed, the four screws that hold the bottom of the cyclone in place were overtightened. If this happens, the tip of the screw may be poking through into the cyclone and shredding your paint - it won't take much, so even if the screws look properly recessed, run your finger over the interior of the cyclone to check.

Also take a look at this, and/or consider swapping your cyclone paddles for X7 paddles - they are made of a softer material.

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Possibly the weather making the shells brittle and the co2 hiting the paint. If the paint is breaking int he cyclone as well, the "cupping" action of the bolt wont do anything cause its not the bolt destroying the ball. its something ni the cyclone. If you were getting chamber/barrel breaks, thats when it could be the bolt.

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The first amendment gives us free speech. The second amendment guarantees it.
SilentDeath12886's Compilation of A-5 Projectshttp://www.a5og.net/5-photo-gallery/...tml#post125307
The 98c backuphttp://www.a5og.net/showthread.php?t=5893

The screws aren't poking through and the housing is all nice and sanded. I am shooting HPA, and I live in Arizona where it is still rather warm even in winter so thats not the problem. The paint had a hard thick shell and was fresh. I am so confused lol. Also I am getting the X7 paddles but I doubt its the problem.

Seems this thread is turning into a tech help =P

I was having issues with the cyclone crushing the paint with the paddles and the arm. Im not sure why though. next time you get a break, check immediately to see if the paintball in caught up in the arm.

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The first amendment gives us free speech. The second amendment guarantees it.
SilentDeath12886's Compilation of A-5 Projectshttp://www.a5og.net/5-photo-gallery/...tml#post125307
The 98c backuphttp://www.a5og.net/showthread.php?t=5893