I went with a Palmers inline stabilizer and now the front Velocity screw doesn't really do a whole heck of a lot. Palmer's said it should be used for fine tuning. I rely totally on the Stab to adjust overall Velocity now.

Some of my friends have said they think I should just screw it way out so it doesn't hamper any air flying through the power tube. I think a little turbulence could be a good thing... causing the air to "Slow Down"
coming through the power tube so it isn't totally "unchallenged". Maybe that's what fine tuning means uh?

I don't know...what do you guys think?

You opinions will be valuable....thanks.

JB

The forward velocity adjuster (FVA) has never been a really great way to adjust speed because it doesn't control pressure. As you've discovered, you can control your marker better by adjusting the input pressure. For fine tuning, I'd recommend a rear velocity adjuster (RVA). It allows you to control the preload on the main drive spring. Reducing the spring pressure means the bolt doesn't hit the valve as hard, and the valve releases less air. It's also easier on the marker, not to mention a little more air efficient.

As your friends have suggested, screw the FVA out until it's flush with the indside of the power tube and leave it there. If you find that you can't get enough fine adjustment with the stabilizer, go with an RVA.

just my $.02

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Instead of screwing it all the way out, I suggest getting one of the power-tubes which eliminates the FVA. Either the JCS gold or red power tube will do this (one or the other, I forget which). On top of that its made of aluminum. Aside from allowing unchallenged air through the tube to the bolt, it wont crack if you run liquid C02 through the marker.

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'07 Proto Matrix Rail (all composite changed to aluminum)
Dye Ultra-Lite frame
Dye Throttle 70/45 HPA tank
Deadlywind Carbon-Fiber barrel w/ SS Freak insert kit
Halo-B V35 board, Rip-Drive, & Bone boost battery pack

With my setup that includes a LPK I need the FVA to help with re-cocking. With out it I need to increase the PSI a lot and which cause the FPS to be to high.

I only had the FVA about 1/4 of the way in but this allows me to drop my pressure by at least 50psi.

When I had the FVA flush, the A5 wouldn’t always re-cock and I would get what sounded like a double shoot and it would chop a ball.

thats weird...

well, then set the FVA where it needs to be for your marker to operate and then get an RVA for fine tuning.

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These are all good ideas guys. Thanks.

I have been wanting the RVA...but....(there's always a but ain't there...) I want to get the Special Ops dog leg stock at some point...so the RVA would be come obsolete at that point. Suxs cuz I like the RVA too.

I already have the JCS Red Tube. Nice piece. Helped out with effecincy ALOT.

Should I teflon the VA nut? I suppose that would keep it corked up good eh?

I am also thinking I might get a 2nd Palmers female stab for the bottom of the grip. That would do it for a Co2 set up...at least that's what Palmers suggested for someone that is sticking with Co2.

Thanks much.

JB

Just put some red loc-tite on the FVA screw to prevent backing out. You can also use a little strand of chewing gum. It works great and wont blow out or get stuck in there. I lerned that one from some pro players.

Also, 2 stabs are overkill. Besides thats almost 200 if not more dollars worth of equipment. You could get a 4500PSI HPA tank for that much or less, and have better performance. No shoot-down, no freezing the gun if shooting full-auto, more shots per fill, just as good if not better consistancy (as using C02 + stabs), etc.

__________________
'07 Proto Matrix Rail (all composite changed to aluminum)
Dye Ultra-Lite frame
Dye Throttle 70/45 HPA tank
Deadlywind Carbon-Fiber barrel w/ SS Freak insert kit
Halo-B V35 board, Rip-Drive, & Bone boost battery pack

I have a RVA and spring kit, it is just the way my A5 works the best.

I know others can get away with not having a FVA. I would say go with the FVA screw mod instead of getting a powertube without the FVA, that way you can but the orginal screw back in if needed.

MisterMister

Yeah I know...they said it would be overkill but I don't want to go to HPA because there's only one shop by me that fills HPA and they charge way too much for it. I can get a Female Stab for 118.00 or one single HPA tank. Since I already have 3 20 oz. Co2 tanks that I get almost 900 shots out of each...I don't want to get one HPA tank and get less overall shots out of one single HPA tank. I can get C02 fills for 3 bucks a piece where as the only PB Shop by me that fills HPA charges almost 6 bucks a tank. He's a rip off because he's the only one in the area that fills HPA...I am not gonna give him my money.

I would rather play all day instead of buying an expensive HPA tank that I won't even get 1000 shots out of and be able to fill C02 at like 12 different places. Maybe I will jump on the HPA bandwagin later on but not right now...

It's my plan and it may not be for everybody but it'll work for me...

your local scuba shop or fire dpt will fill hpa.

__________________
'07 Proto Matrix Rail (all composite changed to aluminum)
Dye Ultra-Lite frame
Dye Throttle 70/45 HPA tank
Deadlywind Carbon-Fiber barrel w/ SS Freak insert kit
Halo-B V35 board, Rip-Drive, & Bone boost battery pack