I managed to clear the jammed valve with a screwdriver and a hammer. The main reason i suspect the powertube was causing breaks, is because there where virtually none before it was put into the gun. I believe the thin end of the tube may be ever so slightly bent, and perhaps 1/2 to 1mm too long, with a somewhat sharp edged end. This tube was ran with the hexagon bolt from jcs. However I'm now back to stock tube and bolt, as these seem to give the best accuracy as concluded by somewhat scientific tests from these forums.

The cyclone in question is fully upgraded with available TechT mods, including squishy paddles, new ratchet, lightning rod and a ported QEPH. It's also freshly greased with good white lithium.

The breaks were occuring in the breech by the way.

Will be testing the gun on the field later today!

__________________


Tread softly, and carry a big gun.

Call Tippmann and say your valve is broken. That is what I did and they sent me a new one within 3 days.

__________________
ER IST DA DRÜBEN!
"Cover me, I'll beast 'em"

I noticed the sharpness at the end of the JCS power tubes too. a little sanding a polishing made it smooth to the touch, but it was never really conclusive whether that actually caused any broken paint or not. I wouldn't give up on your JCS tube, just take the time to sort things out and test in a controlled environment (ie after having a good day with the stock tube, test with the same paint and JCS tube in your garage when you get home). Also lubing the valve body's oring during assembly helps a lot. It should slide out of the aluminum tubes fairly easily.


One other thing - I wish people would stop advocating having Tippmann replace things on their dime that did not fail due to defect, but rather to abuse/improper install. A part like this isn't that expensive and it's just a matter of principle to support your favorite companies rather than taking advantage of their generous policy.

Panzerk, three things:

1) In the future, I suspect your parts will last longer and preform better if not worked over with brute force and inappropriate tools. Allow me to suggest not "slamming" your internals with a hammer, and not using screwdrivers as punch tools. Internals are, well, delicate. (Relatively speaking.)

2) Deeno's point is well taken. Tippmann's warranty department is not there to save you money when you abuse their parts, or play mix and match with aftermarket bits and degrade the performance of your marker. Mind, I love tweaking as much as the next guy, but when my tweaking breaks something, it's my fault. Or, arguably, the fault of the manufacturer of the aftermarket product. It's a bit deceptive and exploitative to take advantage of the generous Tippmann repair service to get parts that didn't fail due to manufacturer defect. Don't be that guy.

Also, You need to trim your sig.



The 50,000 pixel limit means you cannot be both 500p wide and 150p tall.

Thank you, and best of luck!

__________________