Hi

I was changing the powertube of my A5 from stock to a red-hot tube, in an attempt to make it a bit louder. The red-hot tube was in used condition, and previously installed in an older A5 i aquired. The A5 I installed it into was alot newer.

The new valve didn't seem to fit too well into the old power tube, but i slammed it in with a hammer. The new A5 is working good, but it chops some balls during extended full automatic fire. Therefore, I'd like to put back in the old powertube.

Now then, the new valve is pretty much jammed stuck into the likely old-version red-hot powertube, and I'm afraid it'll be destroyed if I pull too hard via the valve "trigger-pin".

Any suggestions on removal of the valve without destroying it or the power-tube?

Thank you!

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Tread softly, and carry a big gun.

Get an allen wrench or screw driver and put it through the thin part of the power tube and apply pressure or hit it softly until it pops out the other end.

Grab yourself a 5" long piece of 5/16" oak dowel rod. Stick it in the skinny end of the powertube and hit on a solid surface. Just make sure to not let the valve go flying or let it land on something as not to damage it.

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Before you do, though, I'm not quite sure that it's your power tube causing the chops.

If you want to remove it anyway, get a pencil with an eraser on the end. Stick the eraser end through the narrow end of the power tube and push. If the valve doesn't budge, tap the end of the powertube on the edge of a desk GENTLY.

If it still doesn't want to move, take a hammer (preferably a rubber mallet) and lightly tap the top end of the pencil.

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Will try that, thank you!

Would it be wise to put a strong circular object into the tombstone slot of the powertube, in order to better divide pressure applied to the valve, and also protect this during removal?

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Tread softly, and carry a big gun.

I suppose. If you have a coin or such, it would help, but make sure it does not touch the walls of the tube (or it may scratch) and make sure it is wider than the hole of the valve (for obvious reasons)

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Take a chopstick and stick it in the nose of the powertube. Then, holding your powertube, hit the chopstick on the ground to force the valve out. The wood is softer than the metal so it should not damage your valve at all.

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A-5, APE 2.0 board and E-grip, Rhythm Innovations Mag trigger, TechT Squishy Paddles, TechT Vortex Mod, TechT QEPH, TechT Lightening Rod, GTA LPK, PPS Fatty Stab, JCS Gold Power Tube, MadDog Spring Kit, PPS 12" Single Vent Brass Barrel, PPS Apex Adapter, BT Apex, Hogs Den Rubber Grip

as the unrealist says, i doubt the problem is the powertube... The only difference it makes is that it's louder and more durable. What bolt are you using? How about your cyclone?

I use a long #2 pencil. Eraser end first into the skinny side and jam it again a hard surface.

Like sirhitalot, I highly doubt its the powertube as well. After getting the valve out, take some fine grip sand paper and sand down the skinny end. There may be sharp edges left from milling. Wash off with soap and water, reinstall valve. OIL THE ORINGS FIRST! That should help a bit. Don't use a hammer to install it, that is just asking for trouble.

Check where the balls are breaking.
In cyclone = Cyclone issues or bad paint = Get soft paddles/ratchet
In breech = Possibly cyclone or bolt or just bad paint
In barrel = bad paint or bad paint to barrel match

Are you using co2 or hpa?

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SilentDeath12886's Compilation of A-5 Projectshttp://www.a5og.net/5-photo-gallery/...tml#post125307
The E-bolted A-5http://www.a5og.net/5-mods-upgrades/...tml#post108414
The X7 egrip retrofitted A-5 http://www.a5og.net/5-mods-upgrades/...tml#post122941
The old A-5 http://www.a5og.net/showthread.php?t=5009
The 98c backuphttp://www.a5og.net/showthread.php?t=5893

have you tested another bolt?