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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2008, 08:44 PM
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Re: Can I?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Odin
I can't speak for others or for other types of lube but I've seen a buddy of mine use Sleek (Dow 33) and had problems. It adds too much friction and causes lower velocity, velocity inconsistency, and sputtering (sear not catching). A quick wipe off and added in some Gold Cup and everything disappeared.

IMO, grease is too viscous for the internals.

I will have to concur with this. Grease by its very nature is too viscous for the internals of an A-5 and will have a higher friction coefficient than oil. Not that grease isn't "slick" it's that it is thicker than oil. If you're going to use grease you'd be nullifying having polished the internals (if you've done so).

Don't take my word for it though. Take a tube of Dow, sav and marker oil/goldcup. Use one, then chrono your marker. Completely clean the internals then apply the next product then chrono......so on and so forth until you've tested all the products you use. Your numbers should speak for themsleves. As you're chronoing be sure to note the velocity and the range of the spikes in velocity from shot to shot with each product.
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Old 08-07-2008, 09:11 PM
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Re: Can I?

What about the grease in the valve that could clog or bog down the valve workings, i am no engineer however the grease seems like it will not do well in high rof.
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Old 08-07-2008, 09:38 PM
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Re: Can I?

This got me curious. On my gun, as mentioned earlier by Javier, after shooting some, the gun feels dry inside. This would cause excess friction and possible inconsistencies. I also remember hearing how TechT Gun Sav was some of the best grease around and I just so happen to have gotten some in for my cyclone. I went to their site and they said it that it can be used on Tippmann's. At first, I thought they were strictly talking about the cyclone, which they say NOT to use oil on; only grease. Then further down the page, it says that it would increase efficiency and consistency. The cyclone wouldn't affect those things, so perhaps they were referring to the internals as well so I gave it a go.

I wiped off anything on the receiver halves, the hammer, front bolt, powertube, and linkage arm of anything that may have been on them. Then only using very minimal dabs (they aren't kidding this stuff goes a long way), I applied it to the receiver. Barely even enough to feel it but definitely not enough to see it. I reassembled, grabbed some marbs, my chrono, a pad a paper, and away I went.

Here's my mod list relevent to the test: polished internals, Gold Powertube w/ no FVA, 1/8" banjos and hose, X7 hammer, X7 valve, JCS RVA, Pure Energy HPA, Palmer's Stab @ 625 psi, stock spring, full Freak kit w/ .689 insert, All-American Apex-ready front, New Designz Front Bolt, CP direct mount on/off ASA, newer tombstone.

Here's the shot list I got:
1. 267
2. 269
3. 256
4. 263
5. 265
6. 269
7. 267
8. 263
9. 265
10. 269
11. 253
12. 255
13. 277
14. 265
15. 260
16. 254
17. 266

Now, I must mention that I did not perfectly match each and every one of these balls to the Freak insert I had. I just grabbed a handful. Anyone that has read my "Inconsistent?" thread will know that I usually match each and every single ball that I test.

That being said, I threw out the highest and lowest FPS as outliers, leaving 15 shots to test. That gave me the following data:

Velocity Range: 15 (+/- 7.5 fps)
Standard Deviation: 5.07

That's some of the best results I've seen yet on my gun, but WAIT! I wanted to see if I could lower my PSI but I knew my velocity would be lower than normal because of the sav, so I thew in my red Maddmann spring and tested to see how much I had to lower the stabilizer. Surprisingly enough, it didn't move. I upped my pressure from 625 psi up to 800 psi and the velocity stayed around 260 fps. Nothing I could do would get the velocity up.

So in conclusion, my marker increased its consistency but at the price of not being able to match normal field speed limits of 280 fps. I could feel the marker not actioning as fast as before. It felt like it dragging through mud but was smoother in the action in general.

To date, that's 2 greases/savs that I have seen that have adversely affected the A5 in some way.

Hope this helps some people.
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Old 08-07-2008, 09:50 PM
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Re: Can I?

Being a digital/electronics fanatic I must say I've become quite accustomed to the ability to have everything at my fingertips. Constant instant gratification can be a bad thing because we, as adults (some of us) need to learn to delay gratification (save money, invest long term, etc.) but this is definitely not a bad thing!

(wow what a prologue) All that to say, thanks for getting to the bottom of that with such expediency......""
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Old 08-07-2008, 10:24 PM
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Re: Can I?

Ive used sleek lube on the internals. It doesnt work good for the internals. It causes misfires and recocking issues.

If it feels dry, oil the marker with oil on the hammer well, as well as the side walls. Then do the typical 3-5 drops in the ASA. It oils the valve and the hammer assembly is already lubed.

Also I use oil on the lightening rod seal, as thick lube gave me grief cyclone cycling.

Last edited by SilentDeath12886 : 08-07-2008 at 11:49 PM.
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Old 08-07-2008, 11:39 PM
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Re: Can I?

okay i used sleek lube on my internals and i havent noticed any change in fps- but could this type of grease clog the macroline of the cyclone---also im planning on wiping it down and OILING after reading this thread
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Old 08-07-2008, 11:48 PM
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Re: Can I?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Connor409
okay i used sleek lube on my internals and i havent noticed any change in fps- but could this type of grease clog the macroline of the cyclone---also im planning on wiping it down and OILING after reading this thread

Its a pain to clean up. Another reason for me using good ole oil.
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Old 08-08-2008, 12:38 AM
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Re: Can I?

I made a mistake and used sleek to lube my internals. I didn't put it on thick, a light coating. I'm a mechanic and I know some of the dangers of over lubricating some things. I went to play the next day and after one game my gun started to decock itself, then through the next game it started to go into full auto. I have a stock trigger with the hair trigger kit so there was no reason for the full auto. First I changed the pins to make sure it wasn't them, still went in to full auto. So after half a day of messing with it, I completely tore it down and noticed that the grease massed around the hammer, especially around the sear contact point. I cleaned everything and lubed it with oil, the problem went away. I really suggest you don't use any grease to lubricate the internals, just use oil.
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Old 08-10-2008, 08:44 AM
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Re: Can I?

I use fire oil, Iget at Wallmart. I have hade no problems what so ever for over a year.
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Old 08-10-2008, 10:01 AM
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Re: Can I?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Odin
I can't speak for others or for other types of lube but I've seen a buddy of mine use Sleek (Dow 33) and had problems. It adds too much friction and causes lower velocity, velocity inconsistency, and sputtering (sear not catching). A quick wipe off and added in some Gold Cup and everything disappeared.

IMO, grease is too viscous for the internals.

I agree with you.. my friend used Sleek in his A5 and he could not get any velocity.. then he cleaned it all up and just oiled it and all is good

Oil is great for my A5
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