i agree and repped ya

Unfortunately I haven't had a chance to try mine yet, but will let you know when I do. I was having trouble getting my gun to shoot over 260 fps @ 800 PSI with my Palmers maxed out. Based on the design change, there is a significant reduction in gas flow impedance in the path after the valve has opened. So, I'm hoping that this will allow me to run down in the 600 PSI range and get the consistent 280ish velocity I'm looking for.

This issue frustrated me so much I was cranking down on my Palmers to increase the pressure (usuing CO2 @ the time) that I broke my stab (jammed the adjusting screw inside and pushed the rear plate out). I have to say though, that the Plamer stab is so well built that I was able to re-tap the thread and it works fine now. I switched to compressed air (crossfire) after I recovered my satb and still couldn't get over 250 and velocity was all over the map (+/- 50 fps and below 250). I know the stabs need to break in but I don't think that much.

Okay, sorry for the ranting and venting, this was just a very frustrating experience and ruined my day of play, not to mention partially cracking the back of my custom stock.

Upon further reflection I wonder...

With the extra flow slots in the valve I wonder how effective it would be to JBWeld the slot feeding the cyclone at the front end so that it feeds only the Cyclone/RT to control (reduce) starvation of these systems.

I think it may only work with (or work best with) the vented X7 Cyclone in a manner to prevent overpressure in the accessory air system. I don't think a QEV would help as it only reduces pressure on the rebound stroke of the cyclone...

I may have to call Tippmann and order one to try this for myself.

__________________

I just sent a message to customer service via www.tippmann.com "contact us" section. Hopefully they will get back to me shortly, as the page stated after I sent the message. I seek the valve not because my velocity is too low, but it will allow me to lower the pressure of the rear spring and lower my operating pressure, in theory.

__________________

I have sent a message using the same method. After 24 hours I received a reply saying that:
"you need a low pressure kit"

If you do not get much help with the customer service email it sounds like giving them a call is the best way; I am calling them tomorrow.

With regards to "lowering the pressure", it's a question of what pressure you're trying to get to. I couldn't get above 250 fps w/ an 800 PSI feed. The gun should operate down to the 600 psi range if set-up right. If you're trying to get low pressure in terms of 200-400 PSI, then the laws of physics require the LPK. It's all about energy. A small amount of gas at high pressure has the same energy as a larger volume of gas at lower pressure. Granted this is a highly simplified explanation, but it's related to the simple work equation: W=F*d, where W= work (energy), F= force (pressure differential across the 2 sides of the paintball, and d=distance, how long the force acts on the paintball (as it travels down the barrel of the marker). With the LPK you need a sustained, say 300 PSI all the way down the barrel to get the energy imparted to the paintball to get the velocity up (F=ma and then v=1/2at^2). With higher pressure the actual energy imparted to the paintball changes as it travels down the barrel due to the dropping of pressure behind the paintball.

This simple principal is why you don't get more shots per tank with LPK, other than utilizing the lower end of the pressure range in the tank.

Do you guys think that switching over to the X7 hammer would allow my A5 to, and past, the 25bps barrier?

Right now the marker wont recock in time for the next shot at that speed (my cyclone is flawless at that speed oddly enough.) I was thinking if I use a lighter hammer, its overall speed to be recocked will be faster.

thoughts?

__________________
A5 || Polished Reciever Halves, Sear, Sear Pin, and Armature pin || APE Rampage Board || X7 Hopper || 68ci/4500 || Modded Cyclone Axle || TechT Lightning Rod ||


I'm a Christian Baller, Put This In Your Signature If You Are Too.

Wow, I have to pimp two posts in one day... :|

It was discussed lightly in this thread. It indirectly answers your question by asking a different one with a similar answer. Take a look towards the bottom on my thoughts about bolt weight, valve dimensions and rear spring strength. Essentially a lighter bolt will need a stronger rear spring to open the valve the same distance. The heavier spring will increase the dwell as it will take more force from the air to push it back to the sear.

Does that make sense? Of course I'm neither an air-smith nor an engineer so take what I say with a grain of salt. You can try getting a spring kit and a bolt and see...

__________________

You could also buy a 32 degrees 9 piece spyder spring kit and trim down the small valve spring until it fits into the valve body, as a lighter valve spring would achieve the same result of higher dwell as a stronger mainspring.

__________________
Tippmann A-5
TechT Vortex Mod, Collapsible Stock, Remote Line, ANS GX2 Reg
Trinity Spring Kit, Simmons Red Dot Sight, Double Trigger, No Trigger Spring, Polished Internals
12" 2005 Powerlyte Scepter Kit
PBNation Feedback SpecOps Feedback

What does it take to get one of the new bolts from the X7 to drop into the trusty A5? I know tippmann has great customer service and if I am willing I know that they will come through. So if I ask for it they will send it?

__________________
At some point everyone...... gets sent home in a body bag!

WWW.undergroundmodshop.com