while i was at my local field(i jsut got my egrip and i polished the internals the night before), when i shot my a5 on semi at half ROF,my a5 would shot once then make that noise the gun makes when you run out of air(like farting lol) it made that noise quick and abrupt, and i had a full c02 tank and it the would not recock the gun, it happened everytime, i cleaned the marker, and it stoped briefly, then it started again. Does anyone else have this problem?

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How old is your marker? Check the sear for wear. Did it work correctly at all, running remote, on/off on tank?

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Three possible problems:

Your rear bolt is failing to fully depress the valve plunger fully, resulting in the sound you're hearing. This is probably due to a bad drive spring

Your sear is worn or improperly connected.

This last one is unlikely - the cocking spring/arm assembly is interfering with the linkage arm.

Good luck.

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no, i am using a normal c02 tank, and i looked into what you guys said about the sear o ring wear, i ordered a jcs red hot powertube and their front bolt that comes with it , a vortex mod , and new oring set, i am also going to buy a maddmann spring kit, and also a quick question, my bolt that holds the two halves together and holds the front sight in place( on a stock marker) is stripped, any ideas on how to take it ofF?

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drill the head off of it. Is you ball latch in the right direction?

wait what? drill the head off the bolt, why, and where is the ball latch??

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If the bolt is stripped, drilling the head off the top of the bolt will be the best way to remove it.

I believe drewed was refering to the ball detent (correct me if I was wrong).

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ok, how do i drill the head off, and when i do that , how do i remove it if theres no head!

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Correct, the ball detent is called a "ball latch" in tippmans. The latch is orange rubber and is located in the chamber of the marker where the cyclone feeds the balls in. Whit the front of the marker pointed this way <--- the latch should look like this _\__ if it is looking like this __/__ its in backwards.

Once the head of the stripped screw/bolt is drilled off, then the recivers (marker halfs) can be seperated and there will be enough of a stub left that you chould be able to grab it with a pair of pliers and turn it out.

take it to a local machine shop and have them drill out the stripped bolt.

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