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| Re: Proper lubrication What I do is take my barrel off. Then add a few drops of oil in the asa and dry fire about 30 times. I do that everytime I play. After 10 cases of paint, I usually do a tear down of my A5.(CO2 is a dirty gas.)
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| Re: Proper lubrication dont have a A-5, but i got a 98..and i do the same 5-8 drops in the ASA dry fire 10 or so times...after Im don playing i tear it completely down (gotta love 98s) wipe every thing down..soak it in Dawn, rinse it, then re-oil all the O rings, springs and the bolt chamber..reasimble, a couple drops of co2 in the ASA..dry fire, then store it in its gun bag...I want my guns to last me a long time..so i try to take care of them as best as possible.
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| Re: Proper lubrication Yes, putting the drops in the ASA and then dry firing (w/ the barrel off) will be just fine. IF you feel the need to strip it down then go ahead, but remember to oil the internals pretty good before you put it together. You can use mostly any good oil for that (Hoppes Oil is great, plus its recommended by Tippmann), but you can just use the oil you already have. In my case that is Gold Cup Oil for my pb gun.
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| Re: Proper lubrication Yup, all you really need to do is put a couple of drops in the ASA and dry fire every once in a while. Be careful not to put too much in though, since over oiling your marker can cause issues as well. 3 drops should be plenty, as long as you do it fairly regularly. Use paintball marker oil or air tool oil... stay far away from anything that is petroleum based as it will eat your o-rings.
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| Re: Proper lubrication What everyone said plus if you have cyclone upgrades you will want to keep some grease handy, any white lithium grease found at auto parts stores or any other kind of silicone lubrication. I have cyclone upgrades so I check it every so often and lube if needed. Hope this helps and welcome to the forum ![]() |
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| Re: Proper lubrication +1. What he said! Quote:
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| Re: Proper lubrication Slickoleum (Slick-Honey) is my favorite lube. http://www.slickoleum.com/index.html Macroline guy has small tubs so you can try it out: http://www.macrolineguy.com/ When I completely tear mine down I lube all moving parts and o-rings with Slickoleum. In between full teardowns I do the oil in the ASA technique. One of the points I like about slickoleum is it's zero stiction factor. From their site: "Our product was developed out of pure desperation to find a product to reduce break away friction. The application was needed to improve the performance of motocross suspension forks. The search for a solution to conquer this friction was on. Everything from Silicon to Teflon and anything imaginable was tested. Diligence finely succeeded, the magic formula had been discovered. Further testing of the formula continued, finding that our grease had outstanding ability to resist corrosion and oxidizing. The formulation has components that have the tendencies to impregnate the pores of the surface. Our hypothesis was very exciting for the simple reason our discovery can be used in many applications. Slickoleum is running ahead of the competition when it comes to lubricating Seals and O-rings that have linear movement. Why? Because Slickoleum tremendously reduces the static drag and breakaway force. Slickoleum has premium additive packages that has properties to reduce friction. An inherent feature of the additives is the ability to adhere and impregnate to the surface pores of the object that needs lubrication. The low to medium temperature range makes this product an outstanding choice for cold weather applications for the simple reason that you are insured total lubrication when your machine is stone cold. Slickoleum is safe to use on elastomers, MCU elastomers, buna O rings and seals. Slickoleum is calcium based, which is considered to be water proof. With the anti corrosion additive Slickoleum makes a good application for extreme wet mucky conditions."
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