In my opinion, as well as many others on this forum; this is the first mod that should be carried out on your A-5 because it's absolutely free, the benefits outway the negatives, & it's almost stupid proof. None of my friends that have done this have ever had any problems. In fact, the only people that don't recommend this mod are people who have never done it. I think i know of one person who messed up his A-5, but that's because he polished his Rear Bolt. ONLY POLISH THE RECEIVERS OF YOUR A-5.

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I started polishing the rear bolt to get rid of the ridges on it and then it HIT ME.....the ridges on it are to hold the lubricating oil on it. If it is smooth the oil would get pushed ahead of the bolt like a piston.

One thing I've noticed is that on my marker, the area of the front bolt feels different than the the are of receiver for the rear bolt. I can get the rear bolt area nice and smooth. But the area where the front bolt moves has pitting on it that I can feel no matter how much I polish it. I mean to completely remove the pitting I would have to remove .5mm of metal maybe and that WOULD BE HORRIBLE for the tolerances.

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Speedball; choice of the Ritalin generation !

Another thing I tried to was getting the six pack of sanding papers from TESTORS that you can find in the scale model isle in any Wally world or KMart. The red paper is the finest grain. I wrapped it around the rear bolt (rough side out) and then ran the bolt up and down the receiver half. This helps apply the right pressure all the way around the channel evenly. After that I used 6000 grit and then 8000 grit paper.

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Speedball; choice of the Ritalin generation !

Thanks for all the encouragement., I needed it. One last question. I have some 0000 steel wool and would like to use that because it will save me a trip to the store. From what I read it will just mean a little more elbow grease to get the overspray off. Any objections to the 0000? With gratitude.

Wakked

Think of it like sanding wood. You start with a coarse material and progress to finer grit. Unlike wood, however, aluminum is a little bit harder to remove material from. The paint will come off before the metal will. There's nothing wrong with using 0000 steel wool but it will just take longer than what is necessary. Whatever you use, just make sure you use a lubricant to help aid the process.

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you know what else helps; Lacquer thinner !.......if you have been sanding for a while with the wool and want to speed it up a bit, use a nylon bristle brush and get some thinner on the surface you are sanding...it helps break the paint down quicker. DONT GET IT ON THE OUT SIDE OF THE RECEIVER !

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Speedball; choice of the Ritalin generation !

Has anyone tried "Moly." I have tried it on a PRO Carbine and wow what a difference. I bought 3 procarbines and 3 A-5 from a rental shop for cheap. I then took one of the carbines and striped it down and followed the directions for a rifle. Took quite a bit of work but in the end it was night and day difference. The idea of moly is to create a near frictionless surface. We took the lot to play with last weekend and the one with the Moly first shot was 325FPS. Ok we thought turn in the screw and slow it down. We turned and turned and the only way to get it to sub 300 was when the screw was all the way in (280FPS). The other two untreated procarbines where around 250 ish with the screw half way in. I am trying it on my spare A5 and will post some pictures later with the results.

Who is this "Molly" that you speak of and is she available??

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molybdenum disulfide coating... think of teflon, but a lot better.
they use it on some rifle bullets too, it's really awesome stuff, i just didn't know it came as a coating.

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Proud Canadian Baller
Kit: A5, camo job, polished internals, 14" Smart Parts Progressive barrel. Borrowed Opsgear G36 stock. 24oz CO2 w/ remote and slide check. Neat homemade sling. MORE TO COME
Vents Goggles and Multicam

I'm not too sure that anything made for rifles or real firearms is safe for paintball markers. Due to the petroleum content.