How-To: Polish your Internals (Tippmann A-5/98)

I am going to show you two different methods of polishing your internal receiver halves. Please follow the directions as best as you can, and please do not rush, or “skimp” on certain steps.

The pictures show a Tippmann A5, but the procedure is very similar for that of the 98 in regards to the polishing procedure.

I am not going to break down the 98/A5 by showing the disassembly steps, I am sure you are all capable of doing that at this point, so the pictures should be pretty easy to follow with the given instructions.

Before performing this modification, take a velocity reading of your current adjustments. Do not change or alter anything while breaking the marker down for this modification. After completing this modification reassemble the marker and check your velocity number again. Most people see an increase of 5-10FPS, or in some cases even more, so keep that in mind as well…

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Brillo-Method

The first method I will show you is probably the cheapest, and maybe the most available way to polish your internals. This method is the “Brillo-Method” in which you will be using nothing more then water and your common “Under the Kitchen sink” Brillo pad. This does take a bit more time and effort depending on how “dirty” the internal shells are. The best part about this method is that it eliminates the need to follow up in repeat steps.






1.) Find your stash of Brillo Pads (or go to the store for some)



2.) Fill the sink with warm water (hot/cold makes no difference) Pick up your Brillo pad and clean the inside of the receivers in a front-back/back-front method only. Follow the same movement as though the rear/front bolt were moving inside.

You will focus mainly on the areas that the front and rear bolt make contact with. You can choose to clean the area that the powertube sets as well, it makes no difference.





3.) After you have cleaned all of the over-spray off the internal shells, rinse them clean…

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4.) Now that you have a clean and fresh operating surface it needs to be lubricated. I use WD-40 mainly to clean up the surface of any dirt that may be left; this also gives the surface lubrication…

**NOTE- WD-40 is NOT a substitute for regular marker oil. You should ONLY use the WD-40 to clean the surfaces. Upon reassembly oil the parts as you normally would during the reassembly process.



5.) Take a paper towel and fold it in half, then in half again. Spray the paper towel with a bit of WD-40…



6.) Rub the internal surface with the towel in a front-back type motion just as you did when scrubbing with the Brillo pad…



7.) Now you should have a nice smooth and clean operating surface…

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1.) Gather up your sheets of sand paper and fold them in half…



2.)Cut the sheet in half, then fold in half again and cut…




3.) This is where you must pay attention. First start out with your 800 grit, fold the smaller piece in half if you must and conform the paper to the inside of the receivers. DO NOT APPLY HARD PRESSURE. You simply need to use the 800 grit paper to cut down the overspray build up. Follow the forward to back motion as though the bolt was installed while sanding. You will sand the Rear and Front bolt surfaces. If you wish you can sand the area where the power tube also sets, but is not needed…

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4.) Now that you have cleaned up the overspray it is time to pick up the 1000 grit paper. Take a small sheet, cut smaller if needed, and wrap it around the bolt (DO NOT FOLD THE PAPER FOR THIS). Do the same for the Front Bolt as well…

Follow the forward to back movement with the bolt in the sand paper until you start to see shiny finish. Check the surface with your fingers occasionally for rough spots if needed. The reason for sanding this way with the 1000 Grit paper is to smooth out the entire running surface that contacts the bolt inside.

You may continue this process on the same way with the 2000 grit paper as well to achieve the best operating surface possible…



5.) After you have smoothed the surface out you will need to clean it up and add some lubrication. I use WD-40 mainly to clean up the surface of any dirt that may be left; this also gives the surface lubrication…

**NOTE- WD-40 is NOT a substitute for regular marker oil. You should ONLY use the WD-40 to clean the surfaces. Upon reassembly oil the parts as you normally would during the reassembly process.



6.) Take a paper towel and fold it in half, then in half again. Spray the paper towel with a bit of WD-40…

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7.) Rub the internal surface with the towel in a front-back type motion just as you did when scrubbing with the Brillo pad…



8.) Now you should have a nice clean and extremely smooth operating surface…

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Man maybe I should just send my halves to you and give ya some money, thats a beautiful job! props.. and as for going to deep, is it really easy to accidently go to deep? I dont want to have to pay 70 bucks for two new reciever halves, that wouldnt even match my realtree they came in... I may just seriously send you my halves and give you some money hahaha

What is this good for?

Edit: i saw that it is suposed to give more fps What happens if you go to deep? And how do i know its to deep?

If your unsure use the brillo pad method or steel wool method and stop after removing just the overspray. Neither brillo or steel wool will take too much matierial off.

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Im afraid i did not stop untill the surface was scratch free. What will the effect be if i took too much?

I noticed an air leak when i shoot, it leaks from the trigger area.