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| Re: Power Tube/O-Ring/Washer help Tybalt: I don't understand. If what I read is right, then you are trying to keep the bolt back so that it's not resting on the pin. If so, then why wouldn't fully-cocking the gun work? Also, I find that even with the valve appart that the spring pressure is still a lot for the O-ring to retain w/o any other loads.
__________________ Less in not More! I did the Math! |
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| Re: Power Tube/O-Ring/Washer help Quote:
When you fully cock the gun (without air in it) for some reason, the spring comes back forward. Or maybe it's just mine. As for the second part, I don't take the valve apart very often, and I've never put the air assembly in with any luck that way either.
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| Re: Power Tube/O-Ring/Washer help When you say the spring comes back, are you talking about the drive spring or cocking handle spring? The cocking handle is not directly attached to the bolt like on the model 98. The cocking handle is designed to put the bolt back till the sear catches it. At that point the drive spring is still held back with the bolt. However, the cocking handle is able to return to the forward position, leaving the bolt behind at the back of the gun and the valve pin will have no force on it since the bolt is over an inch away from it. You might be confusing the force of the cocking handle getting pushed back as the drive spring.
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| Re: Power Tube/O-Ring/Washer help Quote:
Yeah, I don't exactly why it happens. But for some reason, when I bring the cocking handle back, the backpressure on the valve spring loosens. But if I cock it all the way, the backpressure returns. Like I said before, it may be anomalous. But check it out, see if it works for you guys.
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