I just ordered a Palmers Stabalizer a few days ago and sent a email asking if I needed the tool they sell to adjust it, and didnt get a reply for for days, so I said screw it and ordered it. Then I get the email the next day saying you need the tool, is it a hex or anything I can pick up at the hardware store or do I need palmers special tool>?

Yeah man its just a regular old allen hex tool. I believe its the same size allen wrench that takes off the cyclone on the a-5.

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Well... why wouldnt ya?

I am surprised they said you needed the tool. Deadeye is right, you just need an allen wrench to adjust it.

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X7 w/ Egrip and w/ polished internals, Lapco Barrel kit w/ 12' and 14' fronts, Commando Air Thru Stock, front grip, 30mm TruGlo red dot, red hot power tube, Shock Tech Front Bolt, JCS JetClick Ratchet System, 90/4500 Nitro Duck, 80/3000 Scuba Tank w/ PSI Fill Station and a Palmer's Inline remote Stabilizer. And an A5 Egrip as my Backup.

From PalmersPursuit F.A.Q.


Some experimentation may be needed to achieve the best setup for your particular gun. The following setup, adjustment and maintenance apply equally when the Stabilizer is used with either CO2 or N2/HPA propellant sources. Follow these same procedures when a Stabilizer is used as the second stage of regulation in high pressure systems. 2-stage regulation will generally yield several times better output pressure consistency than any single stage system.
The best way to establish an initial setup for velocity control is as follows... The goal here is to let the STABILIZER do most of the work and to use the gun's velocity adjuster only for fine tuning of the velocity. To accomplish this, you must first bypass the gun's regulator or velocity adjuster by setting it's velocity adjuster to a point well above normal shooting velocities. (approx.325 ft. per sec. or so) for a starting point.
Use a 3/16" Allen wrench to turn the adjusting screw, on the STABILIZER counter-clockwise to lower the pressure, slowly, (1/4 turn at a time) just until the velocity begins to come down from where you started. At this point the STABILIZER is providing most of the control and you then can "back off" on the gun's velocity control until the velocity is down to where you want it. (NOTE: You must fire a few shots between adjustments to allow pressures to stabilize.)
This method of initial setup will insure that the STABILIZER and the gun's adjuster are both doing their job properly. There isn't much need to know exactly what the pressures are because it will be different for each gun. What is important is to maintain consistent velocities; a chronograph is your best gauge. Setting up your system as described can virtually eliminate "Hot-Gun" and velocity spiking problems and allows quicker and easier velocity adjustments at the chronograph.
The STABILIZER will not be harmed by liquid and it will control pressure even if liquid is present. Although, best results in velocity consistency will always be achieved with anti-siphon tubes installed into your CO2 tanks. except vert. mount tanks)
There will be a short break-in period, (approx. 2000-3000 shots), in order for the springs and seals in the STABILIZER to "take their set". Once the regulator has settled in, you should find little or no need to make further adjustments to it. The gun's adjuster will need fine tuning from time to time. Play safe, play fair and maintain better accuracy; keep the velocity under 300 feet per second.
Lubricate the pneumatic system regularly. Apply a small amount of light weight, NON DETERGENT (no solvents) machine oil or air tool oil at the air supply inlet. Air moving through the system will lubricate the components internally. IMPORTANT CAUTION: Do not use spray type lubricants. Most spray lubricants contain solvents that will damage seals.
Any questions or comments; Please call.


Grimdoc

Thanks everyone, and Grimdoc for the great instructions, ill let you know if I have any problems.