3-in-1 tends to accumulate gunk, I'd avoid using it inside a gun.

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looks great. doesnt work to well with plastic though........

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Nice tutorial.

It's taking a lot longer than i thought it would, so i guess i'll do it in shifts and get this done over the next week or so.

Although i had another thought...could you use the 3 in 1 oil on your marker internals as well, instead of the gold cup?? seems like its exactly the same, only infinitely cheaper.

It's looking darn good so far. But it really shouldn't take that long to do. I'v experimented with this for some time trying everything from wire brushes on drills to steel wool and even metal polish and the sandpaper and sanding blocks work best of all, and seem even faster. it makes the process much more controllable.

One thing... unless you're really in love with the Tippmann A5 sticker, remove it using a dull knife. Just slip the end under one end of the sticker and carefully lift up (to keep from removing large areas of paint), then sand along the edges of the depression where the sticker was.

You're doing it right though and the results you're getting look good.

Nauz, the extra modification you've added by taking the time to weather an A5 has greatly improved how it looks. It takes the A5 from 'marker' to 'weapon' in a few short hours. I took my MP5 out this past weekend and I think the term is, people were 'gawking' at the weathering job. And I only have you to thank! (If I could rep you again, I would...but I have to spread it around first.)

Will you settle for a ?

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I will. And I'm glad you're enjoying the attention. It's truly amazing how simple it is to transform something like a paintball marker into a true work of art that stops people in their tracks. I've actually had people back out of playing because of the look of the weathering on the marker. it's almost like, well, "notches on a gun butt." It's as if they think , hmmmm, this guy has done some playing!!!!

Just amazing. And, Deacon, you did a fantastic job with it and deserve all the "wows' you get. Great job. I'm just happy that I could be an inspiration.

duuuuude I just finished attempting to weather mine, looks better but I guess I'll have to use that 3-1 oil instead of WD40 since I forgot WD40 is so volatile it will evaporate in minutes leaving the weathering without the prime shine factor.

I may have overlooked it on the tutorial but something I found out while doing mine is that when you are using the sandblock or sand paper (I used 150 grit stuck to a manual sander rubber block btw) it works wonders if you look for the "high" spots and sand them with a fast rough motion because after all that's how the natural weathering effect happens, when certain metal spots hit/rub/scratch against other surfaces.

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"We will live life to the fullest, spit in the eye of those who hold us down and will proudly hang for it"
16th Century English Pirate.
Tippy A5 • Remote Line with Quick Disconnect • OpsGear G36 Fixed Stock • RAP4 M4 Style Magazine Expansion Chamber • J&J 14" Ceramic Barrel w/ APEX • Modded M4 Style Handguard • Full Cyclone Upgrades • Super R/T • PPS In-Line Stabilizer with 32 Degrees 1200PSI Gauge • JT Flex 8 Full Coverage Mask • NcStar Aimpoint Replica Red Dot Sight • Adjustable Laser Aiming Module with remote pressure switch • Pure Energy 72/3000 tank • Lapco 45 Degrees offset rail • Polished Internals • GXG Tac vest

just wondering what you are using for push pins exactly. Looks way better with the stainless steel on there

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A5 - MP5SD Shroud - MP5 6 position stock - 10" Opsgear SMG barrel - RT - Polished internals

there is another way to weather that is REVERSIBLE if you change you mind......anyone ever hear of "dry brushing"....its a technique scale modellers use to give the painted models a metallic worn weathered look.
....if curious I could post more...I just dont want to hijack this thread.

I will definitely give that a try on my A-5. If the results are good, I my even try it on my Tac-One!

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