The only "downside" to this technique (if you can even call it a downside) is that you start craving everything - and we're talking everything - on your A5 to be made out of metal! And that adds some weight, now! But does beauty not require a bit of suffering now and then?

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thats why you use the dry-brushing technique and that works on any surface.

yea i finished mine up last night and i had the same thought, lol. I'll try and get some decent pics up tonight. it looks SO good now!

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Owner of "Midnight" (Red items purchased from A5OG members):
A5MP5k-PDW With R/T| Polished Internals | JCS Red Hot Powertube w/Delrin Front Bolt | TechT Upgraded Cyclone - Vortex/Lightning/QEPH/Squishys | OpsGear MP5 Mag & Folding Stock | NCStar Red Dot sight w/ UMS raised rail | X7 Hopper / R5 Hopper | Palmer's Female Stabilizer w/Lapco mount | Lapco "Apex ready" Bigshot w/Apex tip | 8" Lapco BS w/ Suppressor Shroud| Flurry Emmissary Tactical Vest & Reaver Shinguards - camo'd |Crossfire 68/4500 HPA |Proto EL Olive Thermal Goggles
Other Markers - Spyder Imagine LED / ION

I use dry brushing on my scale models and I've learned that it's only for surfaces that do not come in contact with oily hands and such. For a marker that I use heavily, that technique is probably not for me. It's definitely an option, though, for people who want to see how it looks and then still be able to change their mind!

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you've got a point there !

"I may have overlooked it on the tutorial but something I found out while doing mine is that when you are using the sandblock or sand paper (I used 150 grit stuck to a manual sander rubber block btw) it works wonders if you look for the "high" spots and sand them with a fast rough motion because after all that's how the natural weathering effect happens, when certain metal spots hit/rub/scratch against other surfaces."

Exactly! Now you've got it. All you're doing is speeding up the effect of use.

As a former modeler, I'm aware and have tried the drybrushing technique and what I've found is that it wears off quickly. Use the drybrushing technique on any plastic parts that in reality would be metal and use the sandpaper technique on the metal parts.

Or your could drybrush the marker then fix it with a clear matte Duracoat.

Or, you're right, you could always just use it to see if you liked the look.

BTW, here's an link to an older "how to" I did in Feb. 2006 on drybrushing on MilsimZone...
Painting for a Weathered/Worn Look. - MILSIMZONE™

They're stainless steel socket head bolts.

so I got the 3-1 oil looks a lot better and even did the weathering the parts from my BT M16 shoud, mounted the APEX tip and the shroud on my J&J now I only need my new lapco rail, red dot sight and a laser in the mail, probably get a mag and daaaamn I got a new name for this baby "The Fecalator!!"


Image of fecalator2 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Image of fecalator4 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

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"We will live life to the fullest, spit in the eye of those who hold us down and will proudly hang for it"
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Tippy A5 • Remote Line with Quick Disconnect • OpsGear G36 Fixed Stock • RAP4 M4 Style Magazine Expansion Chamber • J&J 14" Ceramic Barrel w/ APEX • Modded M4 Style Handguard • Full Cyclone Upgrades • Super R/T • PPS In-Line Stabilizer with 32 Degrees 1200PSI Gauge • JT Flex 8 Full Coverage Mask • NcStar Aimpoint Replica Red Dot Sight • Adjustable Laser Aiming Module with remote pressure switch • Pure Energy 72/3000 tank • Lapco 45 Degrees offset rail • Polished Internals • GXG Tac vest

as in like "poop slinger" really ? or am I missing something LOL. No offence meant towards you....
pics look nice though.