Time to show Some pictures...

(long screw is not pictured)

None of the pictures are drawn to scale, it's all just eyeballed to give you a visual representation of what I've been talking about. They're basically 3D sketches, furthermore, It's all made with google sketchup so no amazing visuals here.


Now, There are an upper and lower halves. The upper half is the adjustable rail part, and the bottom half is the outer frame witch is how it is mounted to your marker. The upper half sits inside of the bottom half

red is upper half, yellow is bottom half. To the left is the front, right is back. Green pin is front pin (pivot pin), and the blue is the Rear pin that is moved by the long screw (not pictured here). The gray is the rail itself.


(From Rear, closest to shooter's eye)

The slot in the upper half is for the long screw that runs from the front to the rear to allow for adjustment. The hole in the bottom half is for the same screw. When put together, the upper half is put in the bottom half. the pins are put in, and the long screw holds everything together.

(From back angle, forgot to put hole in bottom half)

Showing the Parts again. The long screw will go through both pins. (I Didn't have time to put in the long screw, will come soon). The front pin will not be threaded, the rear pin will. As you turn the screw, the rear pin will slide back and forth, causing the Upper half, with the rail, to tilt. The cause of the tilt is from the curve in the slot in the upper half.

(from right side)



Both slots on the halves are the same size, the only difference is the curvature of the slot on the upper half. Pins will slide into place from the outside, and the long screw will hold it in place. The long screw will also hold the upper and bottom halves together.
Once again, the green pin is the Front Pin, also the Pivot Pin. The Blue Pin is the Rear Pin, also the Pin the will move when the long screw is turned. The long screw will be mushroomed on the front (to the right) to keep it from sliding back, the adjustment wheel will be on the rear (to the left) and will keep the screw from falling out. The adjustment wheel will be removable. The pins are held in place by the long screw, and the two halves are held together by the two pins. The holes for the long pin in the bottom half is not threaded.

To assemble:
1. Set upper half inside lower half.
2. Slide pins into place. (Pivot pin towards front, Rear pin behind)
3. Insert long screw from Front, threading it through Rear Pin, untill it is all the way to the Rear.
4. Screw Adjustment wheel onto long screw

That simple, Turn the wheel which turns the long screw which pulls or pushes rear pin. That causes the rail to tilt.

Problems:
I need to draw in long screw, and picture it all assembled.
The front on the upper half needs to be curved slightly to allow it to tilt.

__________________
"For the sake of historical truth I must verify that only the Greeks, of all the adversaries that confronted us, fought with bold courage and highest disregard of death." -Adolf Hitler (From speech he delivered to Reich on May 4, 1941)
^^^true story

Wow. LO, this is coming along great. Now you even have an obviously good 3D draftsman too! You may really want to think about applying for a patent before some disreputable company steals this awesome idea. Put me on the list as prospective customer.

Of all the guys here who do machining, I think UMS is best equipped for production vice one-offs.

Get well quick FL^ !

__________________
Palmer Brass/ Apex, Broadsword Vest, T4 Offset Hopper, Dogleg (original slab), A5A2 Foregrip, 114/4500 (Fits in my vest!!) NCStar 45mm Rad Dot < gonna make it work yet!
Glenn Palmer of Palmer-Pursuit.com
Best paintball field in Northern Virginia (or maybe all!) www.warplaypaintball.comCheck my review. PBReviews

Nice write up on the screw rail, Fraggy. It looks just like what I had in mind when you described it. Can't wait to see pics with the screw.

I should have my knurled knob design done by beginning to mid of next week. I have a scenario game to go to this weekend and probably won't get to it. I'll post some finished pics of it when its done.

__________________

Working on it, Odin check your inbox.

__________________
"For the sake of historical truth I must verify that only the Greeks, of all the adversaries that confronted us, fought with bold courage and highest disregard of death." -Adolf Hitler (From speech he delivered to Reich on May 4, 1941)
^^^true story

Well, I did something that worked rather well.

My red dot could only sight in to 75 feet., but today, I took the rail that goes along the entire top of my body shroud, and put a set of shims on the bolts that secure it to the body, 1 under the 2nd to front, 2 under the next, and 3 under the last one closest to the stock, I can say now that my red dot can sight in with room for further up to 150 feet, compensating for the arc....

Thanks for the inspiration

__________________

I cleaned up the 3D file I have of the rail and it is in its final form. I sent it over to the fabricating place in DWG format because they use AUTOCAD but for some reason, they can't use it. So I have to make paper drawings of it now and give it to them. They should receive a finished copy of the schematics by next Monday but I have no idea how long it will take them to make the prototype.

__________________

hope it looks good Odin. I don't have any prototyping machines near me so I think I'll use a dremel and some wood.

__________________
"For the sake of historical truth I must verify that only the Greeks, of all the adversaries that confronted us, fought with bold courage and highest disregard of death." -Adolf Hitler (From speech he delivered to Reich on May 4, 1941)
^^^true story

Good luck there fella!
Looks real cool
all that hard work, you deserve a

patent.

how are you securing this to the rail? I think a set screw would hold similar to the way an M4 carry handle fits on a dove tail.

__________________

Odin, you should see if Borg can put together a working prototype. I mean, he can't mail it out to you or anything, but he can give a review on the working prototype once he's completed it. This way he can tell you what he COULD do to make it more practical or effective. And I'm sure he wouldn't mind building it in his shop or w/e, he's like a kid with that mod stuff. In the end you'll come out with a finished product that is built to its best... And with him building it, you know he'll find a way to make it work if it doesn't at first.