I bought a red dot sight a couple months ago but didn't get to try it out until a month ago. Only after mounting it and doing some test fires did I realize that the red dot will not line up with the ball's trajectory. The sight can't be adjusted down enough because the drop of the ball is too great. I've been told that dot sights aren't meant for exact target acquisition but instead for eye-balling. Personally, no one needs to spend money on something to eye-ball and I didn't want to have a brand new sight just laying around doing nothing. So I got the idea for an angled rail. It couldn't be a fixed rail because not everybody's setup is the same. So it would have to be adjustable. I'm no machinist and wouldn't have the faintest idea of how to make one but I am pretty good with computers, so I taught myself how to model in 3D. After playing around some, this is what I came up with:



Adjustable Picatinny Rail Video

It's just an idea right now and does not represent the finished product. I still need to double check the amount of angle needed and make sure that it's well within being adjusted to. The pins are just there to represent thumb screws and to show the concept of how it works. It's not shown in the video, but 3 small set screws, similar to that of the SpecOps rail, would secure the APR to the gun. You just remove the top rail to gain access to the set screws.

As you can see, it pivots off of one pin that is fixed and the other is infinitely adjustable from 0 to (need to double check still) degrees. The top is a picatinny rail modeled after the Special Ops flat top rail and the bottom is the 3/8 dovetail. It should be around 4-5.5 cm high when finished and will also serve well as a riser mount.

With this, you would be able to get the red dot really close to where you are aiming and then fine tune using windage and elevation on the sight itself.

Once I get the details worked out, I'm gonna have it made unless I hear of a better design. So, what do you guys think?

__________________

Wow, nice work on the video. What keeps the rail from flipping up once the Pins are tightened in place?

I probably should have put a picture of what the top rail looks like because you can't exactly see it from the video. Here is what the top rail looks like. It just slides into the lower rail.



The top rail has two curved slots in the metal and the pin just slides through them. If you tightened the screws onto the bottom rail, it would prevent the top rail from moving as well.

__________________

Nice job Odin. Wish I could do 3d modeling. To keep the rail from flipping up you could use a bolt and nut in place of the hing pin and just tighten it up to hold the rail in place?

__________________
I'm your Huckleberry......

I plan on having something similar to that. A thumb screw so you can adjust it in the field. And a bolt that will hold itself square to the rail and will not spin as you tighten it.

Like I mentioned before, I need to work out a few design details; this being one of them. I don't think it will pose too much of a problem, though.

__________________

Using that plus an apex barrel would do wonders.

It may have to be raised slightly more to avoid your barrel blocking the sight picture.

__________________
SilentDeath12886's Compilation of A-5 Projectshttp://www.a5og.net/5-photo-gallery/...tml#post125307
The E-bolted A-5http://www.a5og.net/5-mods-upgrades/...tml#post108414
The X7 egrip retrofitted A-5 http://www.a5og.net/5-mods-upgrades/...tml#post122941
The old A-5 http://www.a5og.net/showthread.php?t=5009
The 98c backuphttp://www.a5og.net/showthread.php?t=5893

I see everybody made the same mistake I did, not reading the text below the pic. Both pins will really be screws and nuts. Pins are quicker to draw. All this has made me want to download Google Sketch...

Dude, I have the exact problem. Awhile ago I bought a special deal from Spec Ops; hopper offset pipe, weaver to pict rail adapter and a 45mm NCStar Red dot. After I got everything put on I could not for the life of me get the dot low enough. If your project could be made reasonably enough, I would probably buy it! Right now, the closest thing I am considering is this. I think one or both of the posts could be shortened enough to do the job, maybe.

SD, you look right thru the sights, not a problem.

Idea: Will the overall height be shortened? I know its a 1st draft. Great job so far! You could put this by AirH0G, Flatlinesup! of UMS, and theres a couple of other machinists here somewhere.

__________________
Palmer Brass/ Apex, Broadsword Vest, T4 Offset Hopper, Dogleg, A5A2 Foregrip, 114/4500 (Fits in my vest!!) NCStar 45mm Rad Dot < gonna make it work yet!
Glenn Palmer of Palmer-Pursuit.com
Best paintball field in Northern Virginia (or maybe all!) www.warplaypaintball.comCheck my review. PBReviews

My question is if the red dot wont adjust low enough because the ball drops off to fast, is if you lower it more then wouldn't it only be good for that distance were the ball and the light intersects and what barrel are you using?

__________________
I'm a Christian baller. Put this in your sig. if you are.

Yes, but it also depends on where you zero your red dot. After that, its up to you to estimate range and adjust. The red dot just helps you get your first shot closer to being on target.

__________________
Palmer Brass/ Apex, Broadsword Vest, T4 Offset Hopper, Dogleg, A5A2 Foregrip, 114/4500 (Fits in my vest!!) NCStar 45mm Rad Dot < gonna make it work yet!
Glenn Palmer of Palmer-Pursuit.com
Best paintball field in Northern Virginia (or maybe all!) www.warplaypaintball.comCheck my review. PBReviews

I tried looking down my red dot with the flat top rail and even with an Apex on, I couldn't see it. I doubt sight obstruction would be an issue.

There is a little room for improvement but overall, it should be close to 4-5 cm. The trick to getting it to angle enough and evenly is with the height. If you use a stock, this would be great because it would also serve as a riser.

I've contacted Flatlinesup! already but he's sick right now. Waiting to hear from him.
You could put tick marks on the side of the rail for certain distances based on your setup. That way, based on how far away your target is, you can quickly set the dot with the thumb screw for that distance. Last thing you want is to have to take out an allen wrench and adjust before the target moves.

__________________