Hey, i was wondering if anyone that had a good knowledge of the inside of the A-5 could give me a hand

I am trying to find a way to stop the Blowback part of the shooting cycle. The part when the extra air from the valve is uses to push the bolt back reloading the chamber.

Im in the process of making a bolt action A-5 and I need a good way of stopping that part of the shooting cycle

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Tippman A-5 owner= TechT Cyclone Feed Upgrade, Trinity Aluminum Cocking handle, JCS Red Hot Power Tube Version 3, 14 Freak Jr. All American
WGP Autococker Tactical owner

Plans for A-5- Changes Daily

Do you still want the cyclone to function? If not, then the best way to stop the blowback would be to change the valve design. Instead of using a tombstone, you could use a fitting going to the bottom of the valve. When the pin is pushed in at the rear of the valve, it continues forward to release air towards the front of the marker. I would think this would require the least amount of modification. All you would need is someone to machine you a new style of valve.

Some older Tippmann valves functioned similar to this. You might even be able to hijack an old design and just modify the pin.

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A-5, APE 2.0 board and E-grip, Rhythm Innovations Mag trigger, TechT Squishy Paddles, TechT Vortex Mod, TechT QEPH, TechT Lightening Rod, GTA LPK, PPS Fatty Stab, JCS Gold Power Tube, MadDog Spring Kit, PPS 12" Single Vent Brass Barrel, PPS Apex Adapter, BT Apex, Hogs Den Rubber Grip

If the Cyclone still worked it would be great, it would save me a lot of trouble, also do you know anyone on the forum that modifies the valve to do that?

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Tippman A-5 owner= TechT Cyclone Feed Upgrade, Trinity Aluminum Cocking handle, JCS Red Hot Power Tube Version 3, 14 Freak Jr. All American
WGP Autococker Tactical owner

Plans for A-5- Changes Daily

I had one idea of instead of stopping the air, I would use something like a ball stop that was installed backwards to stop it, I'm just not sure if it would be strong enough to stop the bolt

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Tippman A-5 owner= TechT Cyclone Feed Upgrade, Trinity Aluminum Cocking handle, JCS Red Hot Power Tube Version 3, 14 Freak Jr. All American
WGP Autococker Tactical owner

Plans for A-5- Changes Daily

this post must look weird, its mostly me just talking to my self, but i think i found a solution. After watching an animation of the air cycle in an A-5 and building a to scale model of the A-5 on google Sketchup i found it out... I think:



[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]




I will drill a hole from the space were the bolt goes to were the cocking handle use to be. That will allow the pressure that would push to bolt back to go up and out the gun

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Tippman A-5 owner= TechT Cyclone Feed Upgrade, Trinity Aluminum Cocking handle, JCS Red Hot Power Tube Version 3, 14 Freak Jr. All American
WGP Autococker Tactical owner

Plans for A-5- Changes Daily

Check your PMs. Also, look up AirH0g's work.

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A-5, APE 2.0 board and E-grip, Rhythm Innovations Mag trigger, TechT Squishy Paddles, TechT Vortex Mod, TechT QEPH, TechT Lightening Rod, GTA LPK, PPS Fatty Stab, JCS Gold Power Tube, MadDog Spring Kit, PPS 12" Single Vent Brass Barrel, PPS Apex Adapter, BT Apex, Hogs Den Rubber Grip

I don't mean to hijack the thread from you, NoobTubeMaster but since it has nice pics of the internals. Could you tell me where is needed to be polished and why should they be polished? I hear its to cause less friction on that Red and Green(according to the moving image) peice inside the marker and therefore making the balls come out of your marker with less air terbulance? Not sure... can somebody enlighten me on the matter? Thank you!

Polishing internals helps a great deal. How it works is it enhances your o-rings life inside the A5 and suppositly it gives a better flow of gas/air. You polish inside your a5 I'll search for the link and post it here or use the search botton.

Edit: here you go How-To: Polish Your Internals

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It is not a good idea to be doing this honestly...let me explain...

If you stop the blowback, you will cause the front bolt not to return after firing. If the cyclone still functions, it will be unable to push a ball into the chamber, as said chamber is closed. However the cyclone ratchet will have advanced due to air pressure and have attempted to spin the cyclone. Since the cyclone paddles cannot spin because the bolt is closed, there will be a round of paint pinched between the paddles and the bolt (since it cannot enter the chamber). With low quality paint, you might blend shots, and even with high quality paint, you would be dimpling them.

If you want to simulate bolt-action on your A5 I recommend instead to remove the gas lines to the cyclone, and manually cycling the piston for each shot. It's not a true bolt-action as the firing components do reset, and you can still dry-fire in semi auto, but I think this is the best way.

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Thats why im gonna have this and not the cyclone feed

Underground Mod Shop

I've thought just about everything through. All i need is to wait a few weeks till my friend can get his hands on the tool i need; And a valve, but im talking to AirH0g about getting one from him

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Tippman A-5 owner= TechT Cyclone Feed Upgrade, Trinity Aluminum Cocking handle, JCS Red Hot Power Tube Version 3, 14 Freak Jr. All American
WGP Autococker Tactical owner

Plans for A-5- Changes Daily