Filling in receiver channel

The Unrealist · #1 (**permalink**) 10-03-2008, 09:21 AM

I did do a search, but I didn't find anything which gave clear instructions.

I've seen a few pics of A5s around the forum where people have filled in the little flat portion on the left receiver where the stock name plate usually is. They make it so that it's flush with the rest of the body, giving it a really smooth look.

I'd like to replicate this look on my A5 before I paint it, but how does one go about doing it? I know (or suspect) the process involves JB weld...anyone have any more information?

cwest1977 · #2 (**permalink**) 10-03-2008, 10:07 AM

Hey Man,

I looked all over for you. This is about all I could find. I would recommend sanding off the paint to help the bondo stick better. Put on a little extra so you can sand it to the final fiinsh! Hope it helps!

Need clarification: name plates

Happy Chewy · #3 (**permalink**) 10-03-2008, 10:21 AM

This was posted some time ago by someone else here on A5OG:

Quote:

How to fill in the name plate (General How-to):

Disassemble gun competlely first!

Take a knife or screwdriver or anything with a flat pointy tip and get underneath the name plate.

Pull up on the name plate.

The name plate is held on with a rubbery glue/adhesive.

Next get some aircraft striper and spray down both receiver halves.

Let sit for 10-15 minutes. Scrub down with water and A LOT of paper towels. WARNING: Don't get aircraft stripper on anything but the gun. Keep off skin and clothing. IT WILL CAUSE CHEMICAL BURNS! I know because I got some on my skin and didn't rinse it off right away.

Let dry. Repeat if not all of it came off. Make sure its 100% clean!

Get some JB weld and mix approprately with a 1:1 ratio mixture.

Fill in area. Use painters blue tape to "contain" the jb weld because the jb weld will begin to run a bit after 30 minutes or so. I usually just tape over so it creates a semi even surface so its less sanding after it dries.

Let it dry/cure over night.

Remove painters tape and begin sanding with: a file for rough, thick areas. 100 grit or more course sand paper for the finer areas.

Sand down until it appears to be flush with the body.

Air pockets will appear, so rinse off with water and a brush to get into the pockets.

Make more jbweld mixture and use a straight edge of some kind (I use chop sticks Ig et from chinese restaurants) and apply over the are again to fill in just the holes and any imperfections from the first layer. You want a thin layer since its only to cover up small imperfections and will leave you less sanding work in the end.

Sand again with 100 grit sand paper.

Repeat if necessary, otherwise you are done.

Also found this:

Quote:

Originally posted by greggorievich
personally, i would use bondo and sand and paint it.
bondo is autobody filler, it's putty like, and comes with a small tube of hardener. you mix up some of the putty with a bit of hardener, and spread it on whatever you want, and after acouple hours it gets rock hard, and you can sand it down and paint it. the end result looks really good, it's used for autobody repair work and filling in small cracks and dents, and it's popular in the computer case modding world as well as a filler.

Welcome To Bondo
Bondo (putty - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)

Hope it helps

Happy Chewy · #4 (**permalink**) 10-03-2008, 10:22 AM

cwest1977 You kind of beat me to it

The Unrealist · #5 (**permalink**) 10-03-2008, 01:13 PM

Wouldn't aircraft stripper kill the stock powder coat, though? I would prefer to preserve it if possible.

Happy Chewy · #6 (**permalink**) 10-03-2008, 01:49 PM

Don't know haven't tried it. I just quoted someone else on the forum. I have read that some people would rather sand it for some reason. Just keep in mind that if you spray to much paint on the recievers they might not close again properly due to gained "thickness". I have also read this somewhere.

Why do you want to preserve the stock powder coating?