No, I'm the jerk. As Billious Bob said, I over tightende the bolt.


It's a used marker as it is so I'm just looking to mess around with what I've got.


Not sure I could pull that off. How strong is epoxy and is there a specific kind I should use?

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I would make a steel insert that would sandwich in between where the nut goes, that would fill up the entire slot. Get some flat stock the same thickness and width as the the nut. Drill and tap where you want to mount the grip and then cut to the length of the slot in the receiver. I will try and post pics of the piece I made after work tonight.

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That would be great!

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Great idea!

My alternative idea:

Take apart the halves, fill in the nut slot as well as the outside sections with JB weld so that it's flush on the outside. Then drill and tap. Sorta like the flattop rail guide.

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JB Weld is going to be your best bet (that costs the least). My brother in law and I fixed an engine block with it and it is still running today. Where the valve covers/intake mount to the upper block on his Camaro, he snapped the corner bolt off sub flush to the block. We tried to drill it and tap it out...nuthin'. We ended up using an air saw to cut that corner off to get the bolt piece out. We then wrapped the corner with cardbard and poured in 4 packs of mixed Weld and let it cure for a week. We then drilled and tapped it for the valve cover bolts and it has been holding ever since and that was several years ago.

What you are going to want to do is rough up the inside of the area you broke (inside the receiver halves).

Take a thin piece of waxed cardboard (like a paper Priority mail envelope) and sandwich it in between the receiver halves when you screw it together. It needs to be longer and taller than the area you are fixing but divide that area into equal halves. This will create the two separate portions that come apart and then you will be able to separate the halves later on.

Take cardboard and make a form and tape it flush to the OUTSIDE of the receiver halves. Make sure it is on good and strong with duct tape.

Using a plastic spoon, mix equal portions of metal and epoxy and spoon it into the two areas you are fixing...and slightly beyond. You overlap it over good material so it gives it more to bond with. You can remove any excess later with a dremel.

By the looks of it, you will only need one package of JB...but probably all of the package. Fill the areas to just above level of the area that you are fixing...like that aluminum plate area just above the nut that holds the fore grip. Let it cure UNTOUCHED for a week in moderate temperatures....about 70* F and low/no humidity. As it cures, it will shrink a tad bit (which is why I said go a little more than 'equal').

Once that week's over, remove the cardboard form and open the halves. Get as much of the 'divider' out as you can. Now you can use a dremel, files and drill to mill out the channel for the nut for the fore grip...and clean any area to flush that you want.

HOWEVER...if you don't care about sliding the grip fore and aft, you can simply drill out the JB and thread it to match the bolt. As a matter of fact, you can do it in 3 locations...a 'front; middle; rear' set of holes but know that this is the joint between the two halves and will be the inherently weakest part of the mend. Using the nut is the only real solution to that problem.

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Wow, thanks Druid! I'll give it a shot and let you know what happens.

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Sorry for the delay. Here are pics of what I was talking about:


Here is the part I made. I started with a piece of metal I had laying around. The 2 smaller holes were where I had attached a rail. I would recommend drilling and tapping the holes before cutting the piece to size. It will be much easier.


Here it is next to the receiver.


Inside one half of the receiver.


Inside both halves from the bottom.

It clamps inside the receiver halves like the screw does and it would bridge the gap created by the break. You could use JB Weld to fill the voids.

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Thanks, great solution!

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This is a very good solution, as long as you don't need to adjust the position of the grip. I would think that this would give you a stronger/more-dependable fix than only using JB Weld.

Like I said above, since it doesn't affect the firing of the marker, you've got tons of options to fix it without having to buy new a new receiver. It just depends how you want to approach it.

Great ideas, everyone!