First of all - noob here when it comes to paintball. I did look at other similar threads but didn't want to hi-jack them and they seemed like different problems.

I ordered my first gun - A5 with response trigger installed already. I put on a double trigger, flatline barrel, and stock. I have a remote line with CO2 powering it. Bought some marballizers and took a few shots. The response trigger worked well. Held the trigger in and it would shoot.

I turned off the co2 - shot it until it ran out of gas and unhooked the line. I put the marker in my garage and left it there till about a week later. I hooked it back up and shot it - but this time it just shot single shots - every once in a while it would shoot like two shots. I couldn't just hold back the trigger.

I got out my manual - tried turning down the velocity half a turn. (I dont' have anyway to check the velocity but I heard the flatline should be a little lower. I am trying to get my hands on or find a chronograph) I then started to try turning the flow valve (don't know if that is the right term - the small valve your turn with the screw driver) to the trigger up and down. That didn't do anything.

I turned it closed as suggested in the manual and it would barely fire as the manual said. I started turning it open while popping off a shot every once in a while. I got the nob turned pretty far and the response trigger still didn't shoot when I would hold the trigger back. I didn't want to turn it too far. I'm curious as to how far people have turned there - like a couple full turns or what not. It was always one or two shots though.

I ended up playing like that and it was a blast (first time). Man that was fun.

But, I'm wondering if anyone has any advice before I attempt disassembling the handle and try checking the response parts as suggested in the manual. I'm wondering if it's a o-ring or something but I don't know why it would shoot once fine and then a week later - not shoot like it did.

I check the tube on the outside of the gun that seems to bring the air to the handle. It was connected well.

My garage did get cold - we had some 30 degree weather - but I brought my gun inside that day until we played and it was warmed up. Plus as the day went on it was in the 60's and the gun only ever shot one paintball with a trigger pull. Would the cold affect an o-ring? Before hooking it up the second time, I did put some gun oil on the top of the co2 tank before connecting it as someone suggested. Don't know if that may have done anything.

Any advice is appreciated.

The response trigger technically is not a "full auto" system. Getting it to act like one is a matter of exploiting the mechanism by finding the sweet spot, the location and size of which will change based on tuning, equipment, pressure left in the tank - and with CO2, temperature.

So long as the system is not leaking - which you can test by closing the flow valve under pressure, and trying to shoot it (which you did) - I suggest you start with these:

TUTORIAL: How to tune the RT
Trigger Mods
R/T - Clicky Spring Mod Guide

While you're doing this, remember - the wider you open the flow control, the faster the R/T will cycle, and the smaller the sweet spot will become.

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And that's why your bursts are limited. Your ROF adjuster will do that turned all the way over, both ways.

There is a happy medium in the ROF adjuster with the RT. Too fast, sweet spot gets small and your bursts are very limited in shots per burst. Too slow it's easy to get stuck with one shot only. If you turn it too far cloockwise or even counter clockwise it will stick you with only one shot.

Also you may find you don't have enough C02 in the tank to hit the sweet spot. That effects it too. One way to tell is if it even activates your cyclone.

Also the RT is indeed temperature picky. It like being warm. If it gets too cold even due to CO2 usage, it will do that. Put your hand on it near the power tube on the shell. If the shell is real cold, it's being hateful, so disconnect take it inside let it warm up naturally by room temperature and take it back out and have at it again.

Don't be surprised if it needs tuning after you find this is the case. Also take your time tuning it, its a fine piece of equipment but like race cars they have their own personality. Let the marker teach you while you have your manual in hand. Once you get to know "her" "she'll" do what you want most of the time. And if not, chances are you'll know why.

When I got mine I learned from it and the manual. I assumed to know nothing which Einstein said was the quickest path to knowledge. He was right.

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A5 Super Response Trigger Owner.
Autococker Tactical Trilogy Owner
X7 E Trigger Owner
Woodsball. Recon/Scout Sniper/Designated Marksman/Sabre/Tactical Specialist

Thank you both and let me tell you - there is no problem here with me assuming to know anything lol. Good advice though.

I tried playing around with the flow valve and the most I could get it to shoot was like a three shot cycle at a time. But, I didn't open the flow valve real far.

Unfortunately, I was trying to tune it on what I believe was a low CO2 tank. I had previously played with the marker a couple days before and didn't refill it. I think it was low because as you said, the cyclone wasn't advancing the paint.

I had hoped putting a double trigger on would help finding the sweet spot.

I'm wondering if the temperature has had something to do with it. I'm going to store my gun inside and try again messing with the flow valve. I have a feeling with a warm gun and full CO2 tank I'll have better results.

Another question while I'm thinking of it. When you tune it, are you turning the flow valve in very small increments - like a tenth of a turn or a quarter of a turn? Also, realizing conditions are very different, can you guys give me an idea of how far out the flow valve pin is sticking out. Like on your guns is it a 1/16 of an inch - or can you give me an idea of how many turns roughly?

Thanks for taking the time to respond. I appreciate it.

My internals are so vastly tweaked that I doubt my flow settings would be remotely useful.

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exactly, mine too. I've upgraded things on my marker to the point that my settings would most likely not be helpful for a bone stock RT

small increments of turns is best when fine tuning an RT. Now that you have a small burst you are ready to fine tune it. So just slowly but surely slow down your rate of fire. Turning it counter clockwise you should find that your bursts will eventually get longer.

But yes I'm afraid the colder storage temperatures are aiding the pickyness of your RT. Reason being the CO2 takes your marker down to the temperature it doesn't like to operate because of the temperature it was before you used it.

Basic example is, when is it easier to get it to snow outside? On a cold day, or the blistering heat of July? Same thing.

The good thing is you are correcting this by storing it inside. Also when you test fire it, leave the hopper off so you can see if the cyclone does try to reload your marker. If not you can be sure it's low on CO2.

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A5 Super Response Trigger Owner.
Autococker Tactical Trilogy Owner
X7 E Trigger Owner
Woodsball. Recon/Scout Sniper/Designated Marksman/Sabre/Tactical Specialist

The response trigger can take some time to set up, try serching you will find lots of tips and mods (q-tip, straw and clicky pen) but its personal taste as to how helpfull they are, when i used my response i found a double trigger made it harder to find the sweet spot, (pulling harder with 2 fingers prehaps), and i found a strong spring on the trigger helped but thats the total oposite of my friend so try a few ideas and find what works for you, but remember its not going to be a case of squeeze hard and full auto, it can take a bit of practice!

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5 out of 4 people have problems with maths.

Big thanks to everyone.

I stored the gun inside, filled the co2 and got it to cycle pretty good a few times. Trouble is that the gun got cold and it seemed to start freezing up after all the tuning. I couldn't get it to cycle again.

I'm wondering if I should change to using air instead of co2. Trouble is there is no place close that fills air tanks that I know of. Are there any common places that fill air tanks that I just wouldn't normally think of? Also, anyone have any experience with switching because of this or have any other recommendations.

I've been also hearing things about the hose size - switching it to 1/8" id instead of 1/16. Does this help or is it not necessary.

Switching to HPA is definently a good thing. More consistent and no freezing. Also they recommend going to the 1/8" lines if switching to HPA. I have switched both my 98 and A5 to the large diameter hose when I switched to HPA.

Scuba shops can fill you with HPA.

The Outer diameter of a 1/8th size inner diameter hose is usually 1/16. I know I have some extra hose in that size.

It enables you to do one of two things. It makes your Cyclone more efficient using CO2, or it helps you use hpa with your cyclone. Just depends what you feed your A5.

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A5 Super Response Trigger Owner.
Autococker Tactical Trilogy Owner
X7 E Trigger Owner
Woodsball. Recon/Scout Sniper/Designated Marksman/Sabre/Tactical Specialist