Okay, as many of you know I am having an A5 built for me. I am starting out with the standard trigger that comes with the base model A5. My son seems to like it and has no issues. However, I will be looking to upgrade if need be on my marker.

From what I see, the options would be to first put on a double trigger. For those who have a double trigger on the standard grip frame, how much of an improvement was it to switch to the double? I had a double on my RTPro and loved it. It seemed to really increase my ROF.

Then there is the response trigger kit. How much of an improvement over the double trigger on standard grip frame? And I know it says that it only uses excess gas, but I want to make sure it does not further decrease efficiency.

Then you have the double trigger on the RT frame…. Well, no need in asking the obvious since it is covered in the first question.

And then you have the ultimate, the e-grip.

I look forward to hearing your comments. Keep in mind affordability and reliability as well when you post your opinions and suggestions.

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“It is easier to blow out a match than it is to control a forest fire.” - Me
NE OSF COMMANDER / OPERATOR STRIKE FORCE
POG #934 / CPPA #2157 / LPPC #1 / BLACKLEAF OUTFITTERS / UMS / My MySpace Account

Double triggers, lighten the trigger pull by alot, especially if you have a alternate trigger spring. Just the spring alone will lighten the trigger if you want to keep that "stock" look to your gun.

For the A5. E-grip is the way, if your gun would be a 98, that would be different. The E-grip with the WAS board is affordable, and rips like none other (up to 30 bps). But I have not had a problem with my response on my gun, the only problem is the two way that comes out and splits the gas (it freezes badly). If this was my gun I would put the E-grip WAS board, with a double trigger kit. Whatever you decide to do to your gun, you will have fun with either way.

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May God have mercy upon my enemies, because I won't. George S Patton

I have the double trigger and love it! With a trigger mod or two you can make the pull light and short.

It's true that the R/T doesn't use extra gas. The hammer opens the valve the same amount of time regardless of whether you have an R/T or not.

I had the R/T and had some success with it, but switched to the egrip. I know others would strongly disagree with me, but in a heated firefight trying to 'sweet spot' was difficult for me. Also, I use C02 mostly and I found that the R/T was effected by temperature and humidity and need tweeking somedays.

The R/T when properly setup can absolutely RIP and is the least expensive between it and the egrip. Also you don't have to worry about moisture or battery changes. Also by changing the banjo fittings and hoses to the LPK kit and cutting the cyclone piston spring back two windings can bring an R/T up to the 15-18 bps range.

if you're going to be using co2, i strongly recommend against using the r/t if high rof is your goal. as beer stated, it's affected easily by temperature, and i've actually lost the air line to the banjo fitting because of freezing. either way, if you're going to ramp up your rof, i suggest going hpa. you'll get a lot less shootdown, and your tank/marker/arm won't freeze up.

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I will indeed be using CO2. HPA is fine but I find that it is just too expensive to justify for me. CO2 is much easier, I can get it filled all over, and I can keep extra tanks on hand (I have my own private field) for a weekend of fun.

I will also not be wanting to shoot super fast, at least not in very long strings. Short bursts is more my style. Remember, I am the LPPC guy. LOL

I will be running my A5 with a remote as well. And I use that for my Stroker now and really don’t have any issues with drastic fluctuations or shoot-down…. at least nothing I consider a problem. I can always run a stabilizer off the tank if it is an issue later.

Thank you all for the input. It looks like double trigger first, and then upgrade to e-grip. I will leave the RT alone. Plus I don’t want anything that “may” be an issue with field owners.

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“It is easier to blow out a match than it is to control a forest fire.” - Me
NE OSF COMMANDER / OPERATOR STRIKE FORCE
POG #934 / CPPA #2157 / LPPC #1 / BLACKLEAF OUTFITTERS / UMS / My MySpace Account

I have a 98 with and R/T ( Well, super R/T to be exact ) and I have the APE e-grip on my a-5. Both marker have the tippmann double triger on them. Some say not to run the double trigger on the R/T, but I prefer it - it give me options of ghanging how I shoot ( what finger goes where and how I wiggle them. Oh that sounds dirty! ) If you make a trigger stop for either the R/T or the e-grip things will work much nicer.

Anyway, I prefer the e-grip. The ease of clicking the switch over tripping the sear is very nice. And, although rare, there are some field that don't allow the R/T.

With either the R/T or the e-grip on Co2, you wil have "snow" problems. But hey, what you going to do about it? Nothing!! Enjoy your marker.

Shot and simple I say E-Grip all the way. And if you wanna upgrade the trigger later I reccomend a JCS Blade. It is a very nice trigger.

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Stand and fight, win or die

Yeah, the e-grip is the best. Plus, with an APE board and JCS or APE trigger you can really get your marker to rip. You'll need a new ratchet and QEV for your cyclone to keep up though. Alltogether, a TechT Ratchet and QEV will run you about $45...

-Marmaduke

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thanks i was wondering the same thing as shartly but i was wondering if you could just by the board from WAS and place it in the stock grip of the A-5 or do you have to buy the whole E-grip.

the stock grip is not milled out for allow for the E-Grip parts to fit in it. not possible at all.

when you buy an E-Grip, you get the grip halves, trigger assembly, and all the eletronics.

if you just bought the WAS board, you would paying almost the same amount and only get the eletronics. and still not be able to use it.