Originally posted by Mattie of paintballforum.nl:

What is the R/T and what does the R/T do?

The R/T is a pneumatic trigger resetting system. It adds an air path from the valve to a pneumatic piston located behind the trigger. The new air path is created by installing several fittings and hoses on and in the marker. The R/T uses air released from the valve, when the marker is fired, to push forward the piston located behind the trigger. The piston then pushes the trigger forward. This causes the trigger to be reset much quicker than is possible with springs.

What parts does the R/T Kit come with?

Let's get familiar with the parts and their names so we're on the same page. I have used the same names that Tippmann uses in my R/T manual to avoid any confusion. I have also included some helpful (hopefully) information that may not be readily visible or understood from just a picture. If some of you are like me, it may be difficult to grasp without actually holding the part in your hand. The pictures are laid out to follow the air path from trigger to valve. In other words, each part shown is physically connected somehow to the part shown before and after it. Also note in the Banjo Fitting picture #7, I included the Banjo "T" Fitting (bottom) that is included with the R/T Kit, and the standard Banjo Fitting (top). The standard Banjo Fitting is the stock A5 fitting and is replaced by the Banjo "T" Fitting when you install the R/T kit.






*NOTE- The receiver halves must be split to install the Flow Connector Fitting. You must be sure to have this fitting oriented in the right direction. Although the hole goes completely through the fitting, the openings are not the same on both sides. The opening is larger on one side when compared to the other side. If you do not wish to take apart the receiver halves twice, pay careful attention when installing this fitting. The picture above (#11) is meant to show the Flow Connector Fitting protruding from the receiver halves making the switch between the R/T and the E-Grip frames impossible without modification to the E-Grip frame or disassembly and removal of this fitting. More on that later*


Common Misconceptions:

"The R/T fires on the pull and release of the trigger."--This is not true. The R/T or "Response Trigger" is not the same thing as the "Auto Response" mode of the E-Grip. The sear is only tripped on the pull of the trigger, not the release.

"The R/T is Full Auto."--Again, this is not true. The R/T is not the same as the "Full Auto" mode of the E-Grip. However, you can, with a properly tuned R/T, achieve a "Full Auto" effect and rate of fire. This is done by finding the "Sweet Spot" (more later). With some practice you can achieve very high rates of fire, but there still is only one round for each trigger pull.

"The R/T will work with the E-Grip."--Again, not true. The R/T and the E-Grip cannot be used together. The internals of the two would have to occupy the same space, which is of course, impossible. Plus, the internal molding of the E-Grip frame does not have a place to put the R/T Piston/Fitting even if you did take out the electronics. The R/T is meant to be installed in the stock trigger frame, while the E-Grip comes with a whole new trigger frame and is already installed in the frame when it arrives.

"The R/T uses more air" - It depends. The R/T siphons off air from the valve that would normally be used to blow back the hammer and fire the ball. Now, on a stock A5, since the amount of air sent to blow back the hammer and fire the ball is more than sufficient, sending a little air to the R/T is no big deal. The valve releases the same amount of air each time it's opened with or without the R/T installed. On a stock A5, it is certainly false that the R/T uses more air. The only time this may be true is with a highly modified A5, one running at the very extremes of air efficiency. In this case, siphoning off any air to the R/T may not allow the gun and/or Cyclone to cycle properly and could cause malfunctions or maybe low velocity problems. There may be a need for more air to let the R/T operate properly with a highly modified A5. NOTE: I believe this misconception is a result of the fact that many of us who have the R/T have modified the gun to use more air. The more air you can siphon off to the R/T, the better it operates. So yes, mine uses more air, and if you're someone who cannot leave well enough alone, and must modify everything, like me, yours will use more air as well.

"The R/T can achieve much higher rates of fire than the E-Grip."--This is a tough one. It depends on how you define the word "much". It is not true straight out of the box, in my experience. However, as we've seen from some others on this site, with some tweaking, the R/T can certainly achieve higher rates of fire than what is currently available with the E-Grip. But since "rate of fire" can become a controversial subject on this and every other forum, especially when the Cyclone limitations are included in the discussion, I will refrain from saying what "rate of fire" is actually achievable. I'm afraid it wouldn't be much more than just a guess. NOTE: The E-Grip is certainly no slouch when it comes to rate of fire and my advice would be to not let "rate of fire" be the determining factor of which upgrade to buy. And FWIW, I consider "rate of fire" to be the act of actually shooting paint, not just dry firing.

"The R/T is better than the E-Grip." - Haha. Nice try. This is not a question for me to answer. You'll have to answer that one for yourself. Each have their own pros and cons. I find the E-Grip is pretty much "plug and play". The R/T requires some tuning and practice. The R/T does not need batteries. If the battery dies in the E-Grip, the gun will no longer function until the battery is replaced. The R/T, on the other hand, will allow the gun to function until your tank is empty. However, just like the Cyclone stops functioning when your air is almost gone, the R/T's "full auto" effect stops functioning when you begin to run out of air (I personally find this rather helpful. It lets you know your going to need to switch tanks soon). The R/T is cheaper and is pretty much weather proof. The E-Grip could possibly be damaged if water were to get into the electronics. The E-Grip has quite a few different firing modes to adapt the gun to your style of play. While a well tuned R/T and an experienced player could certainly empty an entire hopper with one or a couple of long bursts, the R/T, in my opinion, is more meant to give you quick three, four, or even ten+ shot bursts. The E-Grip does what it's supposed to do every time you pull the trigger, the R/T can give beginners fits during those "panic" moments when they want a nice long burst, but pull the trigger too hard and only get a single shot. All in all, it ends up usually boiling down to personal preference and since I run an E-Grip on my A5 (with the R/T as backup) and the R/T exclusively on my 98c, I find both to be very fun upgrades. NOTE: I play only "Outlaw" ball...legal "Outlaw" ball mind you, on a friend's piece of property. Therefore we get to set our own rules. We play with what we bring, R/Ts and all the modes of the E-Grip are fine. So you need to find out what is and what isn't allowed where you play. That means cruise the rest of the site, ask questions, and give your local field a call. You may find yourself disappointed if you buy an upgrade that you can't take full advantage of.


Test and Tune-Finding the "Sweet Spot"

Once you have your R/T kit installed, there's still a few simple steps that you will need to take before you can expect to shoot your buddy with a smile inducing (for you, not him) burst of paintballs. Remember, the R/T works with air (pneumatic), therefore you must make sure there are no leaks. This is a very easy test to do. Gas up your A5 as you normally would. Then take a small flathead screw driver and tighten the Flow Control Adjustor Screw (pic #5) all the way in. Fire the gun (no paint needed for this test). The trigger should become very hard if not impossible to pull. This will confirm there are no leaks. If the trigger does not "tighten" up like this, there's a problem somewhere. Make sure all the R/T's parts and O-Rings are in their proper places and are not damaged. Add a drop of oil to the O-Rings and also in the ASA to get some oil through the system to help them seal and try again. NOTE: There is also a large O-Ring/Seal inside the Piston/Fitting (pic #1) to seal the plunger to the sides of the tube. That seal can be oiled before installing the Piston/Fitting into the trigger frame or by putting oil in the ASA and firing the gun a few times, similar to the steps taken for oiling the valve's internal seals. Once you have everything working properly, you can search for the "Sweet Spot". This is also an easy procedure. First, loosen the Flow Control Adjustor Screw enough to allow you to fire the gun easily. Now when you pull the trigger, pull with as little but consistent pressure as possible while still being able to fire. In other words, pull slowly and lightly. What you are looking for is a quick burst. This happens because the R/T pushes both the trigger and your finger back to the "set" position. The consistent pressure will re-pull the trigger after the Piston/Fitting has reset everything. If you pull too hard, the piston will not be able to do this, so pull lightly. NOTE: A strong pull will be how you later fire just a single shot when a burst is not wanted. Now you probably did not get a burst here, so next you need to loosen the Flow Control Adjustor Screw and try again. An 1/8 or ﾼ turn at a time should be it. You do not want to turn it too much or you may go right past the "Sweet Spot". Continue these steps until you finally get a quick burst. Once you find it, very slowly loosen or tighten the Flow Control Adjustor Screw until you find the best position. Again, since the R/T operates with air, low pressure from a nearly empty tank may prevent the R/T from functioning. Once you have found the best position for the Flow Control Adjustor Screw it is time to practice controlling the bursts. NOTE: The R/T loves the extra backpressure created from the FVA. Pressurized air will search for the path of least resistance. The more you can convince the air that that path is to the R/T, the better the R/T will perform. An RVA can come in handy here. Screw in the FVA to give the R/T more back pressure and tighten the RVA to keep your ball velocity up. SECOND NOTE: This isn't a class on fluid dynamics, and I accept the fact that "pressure" and "volume" are not interchangeable terms, though I use the word "pressure" to mean both.

R/T and E-Grip Interchangeability

As I said in one of the notes above, these two trigger frames are not interchangeable without some modification. Those who have both frames can modify the E-Grip and have a great backup frame in case the E-Grip goes down for the day. What you need to do is remove the tab on the side of the frame just like you see in picture #11 above and #13 below. This allows room for the Flow Connector Nut/Fitting (pic #4) to slide into the E-Grip without any problems. Next, you must create a hole behind the trigger assembly inside the E-Grip frame for the Flow Connector Fitting. The notes for picture #11 describes why you must do this. Picture #13 below shows the modifications you will need to do to quickly swap these two frames without any disassembly.



Finally!

If you've made it this far, you are obviously quite interested in the R/T. I would like to restate a few things at this point and also offer a few of my conclusions. First, I do not claim to be an expert. Cruise the site and see what others who own the R/T are saying. Second, be wary of posts that start with "I heard..." or "Someone told me..." Find people who actually own the R/T. They will not need to say "I heard...", they will have experience with it. And lastly, don't be afraid to ask questions, there is a lot of bad information out there (not on this site of course...hehe) and I would hate for someone to spend their hard earned money on something they will not enjoy. The people here will do what they can to answer your questions without the "what a dumb question" attitude you get at so many other paintball forums.


My conclusions:


The R/T is certainly a fun upgrade.

The R/T is a great upgrade for someone who likes to mod and tinker.

The R/T can give you a lot of firepower.

The R/T is quite controllable after some practice.

The R/T is extremely reliable. There really is not much that can go wrong.

The R/T can be hard on your wallet when it comes to buying paint.

The R/T can quickly ice up your gun if you're not using a stab or x-chamber.

The R/T loves trigger modifications. I would recommend a trigger stop set at the "Sweet Spot".
I hope this helps.

Whats an "FVA" and "RVA"?

BTW

Also, I LOVE my RT. It takes a bit of practice to get the full auto thing down but when you do, look out! however, I find the RT is best used when you use quick burts of fire rather then constant full auto. Shooting like 5 paintballs in less then a second can be quite effective and isnt as hard on your ammo supply!

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'07 Proto Matrix Rail (all composite changed to aluminum)
Dye Ultra-Lite frame
Dye Throttle 70/45 HPA tank
Deadlywind Carbon-Fiber barrel w/ SS Freak insert kit
Halo-B V35 board, Rip-Drive, & Bone boost battery pack

FVA= front velocity adjuster
RVA= rear velocity adjuster

the former is the screw at the middle of the body on the right side that allows you to control "velocity." It does so by creating more, or less air turbulence depending on how far in it is screwed. like setting a floor stand fan in front of you with nothing in front of it, you get full effect, but obstruct the path of the air by putting something between you and the fan and you get less air, or less air effeciency. that is the FVA.

an RVA allows you to move the "velocity" adjustment to the rear of your marker where the current butt cap is (or stock).

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THX... 2!

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'07 Proto Matrix Rail (all composite changed to aluminum)
Dye Ultra-Lite frame
Dye Throttle 70/45 HPA tank
Deadlywind Carbon-Fiber barrel w/ SS Freak insert kit
Halo-B V35 board, Rip-Drive, & Bone boost battery pack

Thanks for the info

I just got my A-5 with response trigger tonight. I ran out of air before I managed to find the 'sweet spot' with any measure of consistency though.

How do you install a trigger stop? That sounds like a good idea.

A piece of qtip plastic works pretty good. Once you decide on the amount of travel you like you can do something more permanent.

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Upload your A-5 pics @ PBUPLOAD.com

Thanks for the Q-tip tip

I tried setting up the response trigger again tonight, this time with a full tank of air. Once I fiddled around with it a bit, I found the sweet spot without any trouble. My first real test will be Sunday, but so far, having only shot the back wall, I'm really liking it.

FYI, I just did the "clicky pen spring" mod. I added the spring on a clicky pen to where the stock "red" trigger spring was. WOW WHAT A DIFFERENCE WITH THE RT! The new spring is longer and is beefier, so when I pull the trigger it literally sits at the RT's "sweet spot"! That is to say I actually have to TRY to pull the trigger far enough to take it OUT of full auto fire mode! This is by far the best 10 minutes I’ve spend modding my A5... and is probably the best mod for the RT (although it wasn’t TO the RT) that one could do! Plus it was FREE! MUHAHAHA!

I have a full review of this mod in the General "A5 mods" forum.

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'07 Proto Matrix Rail (all composite changed to aluminum)
Dye Ultra-Lite frame
Dye Throttle 70/45 HPA tank
Deadlywind Carbon-Fiber barrel w/ SS Freak insert kit
Halo-B V35 board, Rip-Drive, & Bone boost battery pack

Last night I tried some of the straw and qtip mods for my RT. They didn't work at all. I put a qtip shaft in there with a clicky-pen spring, then I put a straw over the pin that the trigger pivots on. All I could get was one shot at a time. -No response. I took out each of the three mods out one at a time to narrow it down, and only when I went back to stock trigger spring and no straws did I get my response back. What's up with that? A trigger stop seems to be very straight forward and logical. It just doesn't seem to work. It works great when there are no mods in there, other than the fact that I have to "search" for the sweetspot manually. A little help would be great.

Very informative. Thank you.

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