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| Custom DIY Mask (56k beware) Well, here is my "How To" on how to make your own custom camouflage mask. While researching different painting techniques, nobody quite had a way to paint masks. That was until I found Hellspawn's Camo Mask Mod on the SpecOp forums. That page can be found here (site was down as of this posting). He deserves all the credit; I simply took his idea and thought about other customization ways. Here’s my supply list and approximate cost: Mask of your choosing Colored bandana of your choosing (I used ACU) - $2 3M Super 77 Adhesive Spray - $13 (it was a HUGE can, get a smaller one) Mod Podge (my store offered matte, glossy, and sparkle. I chose matte) - $5 Exacto Knife - $2 1” Foam Brush – $1 (Optional) 1000 grit sandpaper - $5 I also had gloves and cleaned my mask lightly with alcohol to remove any residue and oils from it. A couple notes before the list of steps: a single bandana will give you more than enough material to cover your mask. I think I still have about ¼ of the original. Also, I tested this entire process on my visor. As I could take it or leave it, if it was messed up, no skin off mine. I’d also suggest reading over the entire process as there is a “Choose Your Own Adventure”-esque step. Step 1 – Clean the mask Use whatever means you want to get as much gunk off the mask as possible. I used alcohol, people use thinners or just soap and water. I cleaned the entire area and afterwards didn’t touch any area that I would be camo-ing. Step 2 – Cut your bandana I decided to make my mask with seams. It makes the bending areas easier to deal with. The visor I had in two parts whereas the main mask I had five parts overlapping. I made sure to not to have too much overlapping or you’ll have bulges. Also, cut an extra ¼” or so, as you want to fold it over the mask. Step 3 – Laying the stick down (errr….) Make sure you’re in a well ventilated area and all that jazz. Now spray the heck out of the back of the bandana and then the mask with the adhesive spray. You’re going to want a nice heavy coat on each. Good. Now let those sit a minute or two. Hellspawn was correct when he said it makes it extra tacky and a better adhesion. After that you’ll want to place the bandana piece on the mask. Go slowly and make sure to run the creases out as you go. When you’re going around the bends on the edge of the mask you may find it helpful to cut flex room in areas that you think will crease. For my mask, I actually gave it creases instead of relaxing them as I think it gives the mask more depth. After each piece is laid down, I’d suggest using the exacto the open the air ways. Then run the dull side against around the edges of the opening as to get the adhesive spray to stick the excess cloth to the inside of the vent holes. You can always just (carefully) cut the extra cloth out of the vent holes. After you’ve covered your mask with the bandana cloth move on to… Step 4 – Now it’s time for the fun Not really. Don’t get excited. This is where you take your Mod Podge and your foam brush and you lightly, I repeat lightly, go over the mask. If you put too thick of a coat on it, it will become a bit more rigid. Nothing serious, but noticeable. Basically you put a light coat on. Wait 15 minutes. Put another light coat on. Wait 15 minutes. You get the idea. I would actually only wait 10-12 since by the time I finished with the mask a couple minutes had lapsed since I started on one side. Sped it up a bit. I used about 8 coats on my visor and my mask currently has 6. Also to note, I went a little too heavy on two of the coats and it definitely made it more rigid. Lesson learned. (Optional) Step 5 – Customization Before I started the Mod Podge on my visor, I sprayed the back of a printed out playing card (a real playing card was a bit too big) and laid it on my visor. I then just glazed over it with the Mod Podge and the mask all in one step. This saved me a bit of time but I wanted to see how it would effect the outcome if I glazed the mask and then put the items on and then put additional coats on over that. That way, I can see if you can always add things to my mask. I haven’t concluded the second part of that since I wanted to get this into your hands as quickly as possible! I will update with the results though. *Update* The skull spades that I put on AFTER the original podging stick fine with just adhesive spray on the back of them. While only podging the new areas it sealed the prints but it didn't make it too uneven. There was depth distinction between the spades and the mask. So, in conclusion, if you want it to be pretty smooth, place the paper items BEFORE you go over everything with Mod Podge, but if you want to add accessories afterwards, it will work too. So, you can lay additional paper graphics on before you Podge it, or possibly after. I would suggest though, If you choose after, only spray the printed item and not the mask again. As if you spray the mask, you’ll get a tacky film on areas that you didn’t lay the item. If that makes sense. (Optional) Step 6 – Finishing Touches Hellspawn suggests using sandpaper (someone also suggested steel wool, I’ll try that too) to remove the gloss from the glazed items and also to smooth them out a bit. Mine weren’t too rough by any means and with the matte Mod Podge they weren’t glossy at all. I’ll give it a whirl and let you know though. Last edited by WorrMonger : 01-19-2007 at 03:17 PM. |
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| Re: Custom DIY Mask (56k beware) Kirkland19, Great Job. That's how I did my profiler and haven't had a problem with it in over a year and half. If you have problems with the edges pilling up try "Marine Goop" You can get it at Lowes and Home Depot... The Marine Goop is clear so you can take a little OD spray paint to take the shine off. I have a Thread on my mask with the items I used. Yours is very cool so let me know how it last over time. Add a little ScottGuard to it helps during cleanup. Play safe and have fun, Omnicool |