Hi all,

I was intitially going to tack this into my trigger mods thread but thought it would make a better stand-alone thread. The intent is to establish a baseline for how the A-5 operates so that I can describe in better detail how various modifications alter this system. You will notice in some of the pictures certain key items are removed, like various springs and retainers. This was to facilitate taking the photos properly. Also notice that the air valve is superimposed over the powertube to give a visual of the complete system.

So here goes, how a Tippmann A-5 cycles:

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Step One:
Status: Locked

Action: We will start at the point where the weapon is off “safe” and the bolt is locked to the rear by the sear and the trigger slider is under the nose of the sear. This is the position where pulling the trigger starts a series of events to make a ball go downrange and get the marker ready to do it again.This is the beginning of the cycle. The marker is ready to fire, all that is required is to pull the trigger to set in motion the entire process.

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Step 2:
Status: Release

Action: When you pull the trigger back it rotates around a pin in the frame. A second pin on the frame prevents you from pulling it back too far. This action lifts the trigger slider under the nose of the sear and puts the sear into the NU (Nose Up) position forcing it to rotate around it’s rotation pin and making the tail to drop which releases the bolt and allows it to go forward

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Step Three:
Status: Fire

Action 1: When the bolt goes forward it also pushes the front bolt forward and the paintball into the chamber, simultaneously it slams into the air valve inside the power tube (red arrows).

Action 2: This releases the air through the valve, notice that it flows backwards initially (dark green arrows). At the rear of the valve is a groove, similar in design to a very large banjo fitting. The air comes out here and down the outside side of the valve into channels (black outline above) machined into it and forward into the nose of the power tube. This is depicted by the green arrows above.

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Step Four:
Status: Recock

There is enough extra air in this system to also push the bolt back towards the rear of the marker. Using this excess air to recock the marker is called “blowback operated.” It is also at this point that some of the excess gas is passed through the accessory hole to feed your Cyclone (and RT if fitted)

Action: As the bolt slides rearward from the blowback action it passes over the sear. The sear spring is providing a 45 degree vertical pressure on the rear of the sear which does two things: It forces the tail of the sear into the bolt catch and it allows the entire sear to slide backwards on the sear pin.

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Step 5:
Status: Re-Arm

Action: Once the bolt slides completely to the rear and over the tail of the sear the sear spring forces the tail into the locking groove of the bolt. The bolt still has tension on it from the operating spring (pushing forward) which forces engagement to the sear and pushes the sear forward. This forces the sear to engage the trigger slider on the trigger into the forward position.

The trigger slider could be made solid, but Tippmann made it with a spring so that it acts as a buffer; otherwise there would be rapid and excessive wear on the trigger as this is quite a forceful action.

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Step 6:
Status: Reset

Action: Releasing the trigger at this point rotates the trigger clockwise around the trigger rotation pin. This allows the trigger slider to pop down under the nose of the sear. The spring behind the trigger slider pushes it to the rear of the trigger and under the sear. When you release the trigger you will hear a muffled click, this is the sound of the slider popping back under the sear. Once the slider is under the sear you are ready once again to fire the marker – go back to step one, pull the trigger and repeat ad-nauseum (or until you run out of paint).

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Nice guide, good and clear pictures/diagrams too.

Either you lead a really boring life or you really love to explain things. Either way that was very well done! If you are interested, I have several dozen Microsoft Active Directory operations tasks that need to be documented!

MG

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"Moderation is a fatal thing. Nothing succeeds like excess."

A-5, eGrip, 14" TruFlight QB, 12" PPS Black non-ported w/APEX tip, P90 Mod, X7 hopper, Barska 50mm Red Dot, Laser Sight, CMI remote w/ProConnect, CMI Regulator R-2000, SCI 88/4500, Dye LLP, Proto Switch EL, DIY ratchet mod, polished internals
FN-P90 Promo Video

Ya know I always understood how it worked but it is very cool to see it illustrated like this.

Well done!!

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Thats beautiful!! i love it!!.... Ill throw it into an animation tonight if you want.... keep it down to one file

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Sure, if you want! We can use both - yours to show it in action, and the static pictures to show off the details.

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I must be a retard because I still dont understand where the air comes from that blows the hammber back...

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A5 || Polished Reciever Halves, Sear, Sear Pin, and Armature pin || APE Rampage Board || X7 Hopper || 68ci/4500 || Modded Cyclone Axle || TechT Lightning Rod ||


I'm a Christian Baller, Put This In Your Signature If You Are Too.

It happens in Step 3. When the hammer strikes the valve the valve opens and air is expelled (the dark green arrow). Part of that pressure is against the hammer, the rest of it goes down the side channels of the valve.

The hammer has an o-rig around it. The hammer goes about 1/2" (guessing) into the powertube before striking the valve. When the valve opens the air pushes against the hammer. The O-ring seals it for that split second it is traveling backwards inside the powertube. It's in that split second that the air rushes forward down the side channels to pressurize the front bolt/paintball.

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Nice write up pysopper!

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Yes, I'm a Spyder convert, but I might be returning!

Great writeup